How to Fix Broken Flip-Flops

We went to Hawaii last year and had all kinds of adventures.  While on these travels, I took a stance against the $40 flip-flops available at every corner and bought a pair of $1 flip-flops at the local Walmart when we stopped to buy water and supplies.  It wasn’t long after coming home from vacation that the plastic strap began come out of the foam sole.  While I wasn’t expecting a lifetime of use out of the flip-flops, I did find a way to quickly and cheaply fix them.

Occlupanid, bread clip, bread bag clip, bag clip, plastic bread bag clip

These ubiquitous plastic clips found on so many bread bags

Step 1: Find a plastic bread bag clip

This little bit of plastic is the only thing you’ll need to fix your flip flops.1 You may be fortunate enough to find a stash of these in your kitchen junk drawer.

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Step 2: Push plastic strap through flip-flops

Before I attempted this fix, I was already just pushing the plastic strap through the hole in the foam sole.  This worked for a few days, but would eventually work itself loose all over again.  After several weeks, the plastic strap would come out after just a couple of steps.

All you have to do is push the strap back through the foam and have your plastic clip at the ready.

fixed flip flop, fixed flipflops

Just push the plastic bread bag clip around the plastic strap and wear the flip flops as normal

Step 3:  Place plastic bread bag clip around plastic strap

All fixed!  I broke off part of one of the “teeth” on the bread clip as I took it on and off the flip flops while taking these pictures.  Although it worked for several more weeks, I think it would have lasted much longer if I had never taken if off or if I had added a little bit of hot glue to keep it in place.

  1. There is WAY more written about these little plastic clips than I would ever have imagined.  But, that’s the internet for you. []

Your Restaurant Website Sucks



Dear Restaurant,

Your website is really bad.1  It is literally preventing me from giving you money.  Don’t take this the wrong way, all your competitors’ websites suck too.  Fortunately, I have come up with a quick and easy list of things you can do to make your website not suck:

  1. DO prominently display
    1. Phone number2
    2. Address3
    3. Hours of operation4
    4. Your menu in HTML with descriptions5
    5. Bonus points for also having a downloadable PDF of the menu6
  2. DO give important information such as whether you accept cash only
  3. DO NOT have a flash, music, or animations7

Thank you,

Your (soon to be) loyal customer,


  1. Photo courtesy of Chris Blakely []
  2. So I can call you []
  3. So I can go to you []
  4. So I can be there when you are there []
  5. So I show picky eaters you have a good place to eat with things they will like []
  6. So I can give everyone a copy of your menu []
  7. I will close the browser window and never eat at your restaurant []

My eyes! The goggles do nothing!

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While I’m not much one for impulse buys, I was unable to prevent myself from purchasing the Adafruit Trinket-Powered NeoPixel Goggle Kit Pack.  If you’re on the fence about dropping the $40 for this kit, let me help you out with the pro’s and con’s list I went through before buying my own.

  • Cons
    • I literally have no practical uses for these goggles
    • Other than flashing lights, they don’t actually do anything useful
    • Once assembled, they can’t be used as goggles since (a) the LED’s are too bright to expose to even your closed eyes and (b) if you’re able to close off the glare, you’ll have an incredibly narrow field of vision
    • The kit is $40
  • Pros
    • They are seriously badass animated LED flashy goggles
    • Sourcing all the parts separately would easily cost you $50, which makes this a deal at $40

Kit Review

As I have come to expect from Adafruit, the kit is, in a word fantastic.  The parts are all packed neatly, wrapped, protected, and in a nice black cardboard box.  If you’ve never purchased a kit from Adafruit or checked out one of their tutorials, you’re really missing out.  The tutorials have lots of high quality pictures, helpful step-by-step directions, and little tips along the way that will undoubtedly make you a better hacker.

I got the basic electronics up and running pretty quickly.1 From there it was relatively easy to install them into the goggles.  My wife and daughter, both skeptical when I first told them about the goggles, immediately demanded their own upon seeing mine.

If you end up buying this kit, I would recommend not doing what I did – hotgluing the Trinket and NeoPixel rings in place.  Don’t get me wrong, this is exactly what you need to do to make affix these parts in place for wearing.  The thing is – within 24 hours of completing the project my mind was boiling over with ideas of how to Make it Better.™

Hacking the Goggles

The thing is, the kit is actually capable of doing a whole lot more with very minimal hacking.  Assembled exactly per instructions, the goggles use just one I/O pin on the Trinket, leaving four unused.  The evening after I had assembled the goggles, I dismantled them in order to pull out the Trinket, and soldered additional wires to pins 2, 3, and 4 and spliced three new wires to ground.  After soldering a big 12mm tactile button to each of three sets of wires, I hotglued the buttons above the right lens.  Now I can use these buttons to interact with the goggles in some small ways.

If you’re thinking of modifying your goggles like my own, you’ll need a little more ribbon cable, three big tactile buttons, a battery extension cable, black craft foam, and a hotglue gun.  You don’t really need the extension cable, but it will make keeping the battery inside the goggles and recharging the battery much easier.2

The Adafruit website provides several other ways to extend these goggles.  You can their tutorials to make the goggles sound reactive, controllable by bluetooth, or if you’re using something more powerful than a Trinket you can add an accelerometer.

My Setup

If you’d like to use my animations, you can find my code on GitHub.  I’ve updated the code with several animations:

  1. Larson Scanner.  This is just a single LED lit up, travelling from the left to right and back again.
  2. Wave Scanner.  Two LED’s are lit up, one travelling along the top of the lens and another along the bottom, until it reaches the far side of the goggles, then back again.
  3. Infinity Scanner.  A single LED travels around one lens, then around the other in an infinity pattern.
  4. Spinny Wheels.  Four LED’s on each lens spinning.  This is part of the original sketch from Adafruit.
  5. Sparks.  A single LED on each lens lights up briefly.  This is part of the original sketch from Adafruit.
  6. Sirens.  One red spinny wheel and one blue spinny wheel.
  7. aStrobe.  The right and left lenses flash white on and off.

The buttons have specific uses as well:

  • Button 1 (on pin 2) makes the current animation brighter
  • Button 2 (on pin 3) cycles through the animations
  • Button 3 (on pin 4) makes all LED’s light up bright red (won’t destroy your night vision!)
  • Button 2 and 3 simultaneously make all LED’s light up bright white (destroy everyone’s night vision!)

If you are going to go through the trouble of building this kit, I would highly recommend adding buttons to it3 and leaving the USB port on the Trinket exposed for later re-programming.  There are a few little tricks you can do with just a single button – treating a button click differently than a button press of a certain duration – but I feel that these would probably be more difficult to use than just adding a second button.  With two buttons, there are up to three combinations4 , with three buttons would have up to seven combinations5 , and four buttons seven billion combinations.6

At this point, I’m still experimenting with with ways to make the goggles more useful/awesome.  Perhaps another post is in order?

  1. It would have been even quicker if my Trinket skillz weren’t so rusty []
  2. Beats the hell out of trying to get your goggles right next to a USB cable. []
  3. Or, at the least soldering wires to the pins for later use []
  4. 1, 2, and 1 + 2 []
  5. 1, 2, 3, 1 + 2, 1 + 3, 2 + 3, 1 + 2 + 3 []
  6. I might have gotten carried away with the math on the last one… []

DIY Shrinky Dinks

Peter DINKlage

Peter DINKlage

The other day I stumbled across a method of making DIY shrinky-dinks.1 Today my daughter and I gave it a shot – they turned out really well!  Here’s how you can make your own:

  1. Cut Plastic Pieces
    1. Locate polystyrene which is easily identifiable by the number 6 in the recycling triangle
    2. You’ll find clear plastic polystyrene is used in plastic salad bar containers, to-go trays, and plastic cookie trays inside boxes of cookies
    3. Shape the plastic as desired with scissors and a hole puncher to round edges and make holes
  2. Decorate Plastic Pieces
    1. Color or draw with permanent markers (Staples usually has some kind of deal on a pack of colored Sharpies)
  3. Bake and Shrink
    1. Preheat oven to 375
    2. Place plastic pieces on a piece of parchment or aluminum foil (colored sides up) on a baking sheet
    3. Put the baking sheet in the oven
    4. You’ll notice the pieces curl or warp significantly, possibly even rolling around.  They will eventually flatten out.
    5. Once all of the pieces are flat, pull the baking sheet out, take the parchment off the baking sheet and let the pieces cool

When they shrunk down, the “hole punch” holes are the perfect size for adding a small metal ring for use in a necklace or charm bracelet.  With a slightly larger hole you could probably make a decent keyring fob.

  1. Credit to Alyssa and Cindy for the ideas []

Priceless Moments with a Crappy Burner Phone

Burner phones can be useful

Burner phones can be useful

A little while ago I purchased an LG 38c “Optimus Dynamic” Android based touch screen “pay as you go” phone.1 Frankly, this phone has come in WAY more useful than I ever though it would.  Here are a few ways in which I’ve actually used this phone recently:

  • Using a tripod adapter of my own design I set up the camera phone outside and captured a time lapse the full lunar eclipse on 10/8/2014.
  • I used a GPS map to navigate to a location I was unfamiliar with, and back again
  • I captured all of the preparation and dinner for Thanksgiving on a time lapse
  • My wife and I recently had a baby girl – I captured the entire frantic trip to the hospital in a time lapse
  • I had to stay up all night with my daughter a few weeks ago, captured all of that in a time lapse and set it to Daft Punk “Up All Night
  • I use it to take notes, send email, look things up on the web, while I’m using my regular phone for something important like Doctor Who Legacy
  • It’s a cheap movie camera, digital camera, and sound recorder for my eldest daughter
  • I used it to play an hour-long recording of ocean waves for our baby, to help her fall asleep
  • I used it to watch pretty much all of Californication on Netflix
  • An MP3 player
  1. Photo courtesy of Cianginty []

The best apps for your crappy burner phone

Crappy phone, great apps

Crappy phone, great apps

I recently purchased a cheap pay-as-you-go Android smartphone with no intention to ever use the phone feature.  After removing several non-essential apps from the phone, I installed the following useful (and free!) apps:

    • Plane Mode Tweaker by Chislon Chow
      • This app allows you to let your WiFi through the phone’s “Airplane Mode.”  All cell phones, even those that have never been registered with any phone carrier, will periodically communicate with nearby cell towers.  Using this app, I can turn off that ability – while still leaving the WiFi untouched.  By turning off just the cell radio in the phone, I was able to extend the battery life significantly.
    • Tina Time-Lapse by B.nana Technology
      • This is a really great free app with lots of settings.  If you buy the paid app, it seems to have more settings and abilities.
    • Voice Recorder by Mamoru Tokashiki
      • I’ve been using this useful app for years to make notes to myself.  ((And once to record the sounds of a tiger.))1
    •  VNC Viewer by RealVNCLimited
      • Control any other computer running a VNC server.
    • GPS Navigation
    • Chess Time – Muliplayer Chess by Haptic Apps LLC
      • Great app if you enjoy the occasional chess game.  I use it to play against friends2 all the time.
    • IMDB Movies & TV
      • Sometimes you just have to know the name of the actress who’s playing the barrista.
    • Shazam
      • Sometimes you just have to know the name of a song playing in a movie or TV show.
    •  Netflix
      • It is downright ridiculous to me that I can buy a $20 appliance for watching movies over a wireless connection.

Also, once you install apps on the phone, you’ll want to go to the app manager and move them to “internal memory.”  Although it sounds the phone is asking you if you want to move all the apps to the very limited 1GB of the phone’s internal memory, what you’re really doing is moving the apps to the “internal memory” of the 4GB microSD card.

  1. True story. []
  2. And enemies []

Why You Should Buy a Crappy Burner Phone

LG Dynamic Optimus (LG 38c)

LG Dynamic Optimus (LG 38c)

I recently purchased a cheap “pay-as-you-go” Android smartphone after reading about it on Slashdot.  The phone in question is an “LG 38c” being sold under the name, “LG Optimus Dynamic” with triple “Tracphone” minutes which you can pick up from Amazon for $19.99.

Before you rush out and get one, the processor is underpowered, the screen is small, it only comes with a 4GB microSD card and very limited internal memory, the viewing angle is relatively narrow, the touchscreen is a flexible plastic rather than sturdy glass, and runs an older version of the Android operating system that can’t handle many apps.12

That said, you would be hard pressed to be able to build or buy a device for $20 that is as capable as this little phone.  The phone can use WiFi, can run the Netflix movie viewing app, be used as a web browser, alarm clock, MP3 player, digital camera, digital video recorder, GPS navigator, send and receive email (over WiFi), and run many useful apps available from the Google Play store.  Also, you may not be aware of this or not, but every single cell phone out there – even those without any cell phone plan – is capable of dialing 9-1-1.  ((Obviously, this phone can be as cheap as it is because the phone company is subsidizing the cost, hoping you make it up by buying phone minutes.  Although I’m basically breaking this business model on a small scale, I just don’t seem to feel that guilty about it.))

  1. One amusing downside to buying a crappy burner phone is that your wife will look at you like you’re crazy.  She’s not going to think you’re a super spy or a drug dealer or anything cool like that. []
  2. Right, Honey?! []

XY-Plotter Robot Kit v2.0 Unboxing

The crew over at were kind enough to send an XY-Plotter Robot Kit v2.0 my way for a review.  I’ll be assembling the the robot and posting pictures of the process soon, but for now I wanted to do an unboxing preview for you.

The Box

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The first step to any unboxing review must, necessarily, start with the box in which the product arrives.  The box arrived safe and sound from China and was well packaged for transport.  Most parts were wrapped in plastic, the electronics were in anti-static bags, and the boxes were nestled in thick foam padding.  The blue anodized aluminum beams were mostly not wrapped in anything.  There were no noticeable scratches on any of them.  I did find a few blue anodized aluminum burrs from the parts in the box.  Keep an eye out for them if you’re opening the package on carpet, as I did.

The Electronics

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Above are the pictures of electronics.  As mentioned earlier, each board arrived in its own little anti-static baggie.  The card with the QR code to the instructions and rubber feet were a nice touch.  At this point you’ll notice that the connector ports on all of the boards have colored coded stickers to assist with assembly.  Clockwise starting at the top left corner, the box includes the card with the QR code to the instructions, three Me RJ25 Adapters, two Me Steper Driver v1.0 boards, an Me Baseboard, and four sticky-backed rubber feet.

The Tools

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Clockwise starting at the top left corner, the box includes RJ25 cables, a USB micro cable, three timing belts, three micro switch buttons, three lasercut acrylic “LS” brackets for the micro switches, 11 tiny screws, one lasercut acrylic “servo bracket,” another RJ25 cable, a small Philips screwdriver, a 2.5mm hex screwdriver, a 7mm wrench, two 1.5mm hex wrenches, a Micro Servo, a lasercut acrylic “Baseboard,” and one Beam 0808 72/80 aluminum beam.

The Hardware

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There are a lot of hardware parts in the main cardboard box:

  1. Shafts
    1. 2x D shafts, 4 x 56mm
    2. 1x linear motion shaft, D4 x 80mm
    3. 1x threaded shaft, 4 x 39mm
  2. Flexible coupling, 4 x 4mm
  3. 6x timing pulleys 18T
  4. 8x flange bearing, 4 x 8 x 3mm
  5. 43x M4 nuts
  6. 25x plastic ring, 4 x 7 x 2mm
  7. 6x cutable linkage 3, anodized blue aluminum
  8. 6x linear motion slide unit, 8mm
  9. Beams
    1. 4x Beam 0824 48
    2. 1x Beam 0824 80
    3. 4x Beam 0824 96
    4. 2x Beam 0824 112
  10. 2x 42BYG Stepper Motor Bracket
  11. 2x bracket, 3 x 3
  12. 4x plate, 3 x 6
  13. 5x bracket, U1
  14. 3x belt connector
  15. 1x Beam 0828 16
  16. 1x 42BYG Stepper Motor
  17. 12V DC power adapter
  18. 1x 42BYG Stepper Motor
  19. 31x socket cap screw, M4 x 14
  20. 28x headless set screw, M3 x 5
  21. 28x socket cap screw, M4 x 16
  22. 6x plastic rivets R4100
  23. 18x plastic rivets R4060
  24. 10x shaft collar, 4mm
  25. 18x socket cap screw, M4 x 30
  26. 12x socket cap screw, M4 x 22
  27. 30x plastic zip ties and 5x rubber bands
  28. 36x socket cap screw, M4 x 8
  29. 3x cross recessed pan head screw, M2×10 and 3x M2 nuts
  30. 10x countersunk screw, M3x8

The last picture in the set depicts all the really long pieces of the robot – the linear shafts and beams.  In order, from top to bottom, they are:

  1. 2x Beam 2424-504
  2. 2x Beam 0824 496
  3. 4x linear motion shaft, D8 x 496mm
  4.  1x linear motion shaft, D4 x 512mm
XY-Plotter Robot Kit v2.0 Review
  1. XY-Plotter Robot Kit v2.0 Unboxing

Disclaimer:  This robot kit was provided by for the purposes of unboxing and review.  They have asked that I provide my honest assessment of this kit.

Maker Faire Checklist

Maker Faire Checklist

Maker Faire Checklist

Between taking most of “Maker Faire” week off work and getting ready1 for MakerCon and Maker Faire, May was a hectic month. I remembered pretty much everything I needed for a successful2 – except “maker cards” and a metric ruler.  With a few additional tweaks, I’m sure it can be even better next year.

In case you’ve never set up a booth at Maker Faire, you get an area with several folding chairs, a few long folding tables, and a chain link fence on at least one side of you.34 To have an interesting booth, you’ll want something to put over your table and on the chain link fence.

Since my entire booth was basically a wooden box that unpacked into a robot that made decorations for my booth, set up was rather easy.

  • Attending the Fair
    • Cash5
    • A MakerBingo card
    • A list of things and people you want to see6
    • Backpack7
    • Food or snacks8
    • Phone charger9
    • Warm weather clothes – shorts, t-shirt
    • Warmer clothes, stowed in backpack, for when it gets dark and cooler10
    • Laptop, power cable11
  • Booth Setup
    • One large table covering per table12
    • One large display board to explain your project ((Like the kind for science fairs))
    • One booklet of information13
    • Caution tape14
    • Zip ties
    • Hot glue, glue sticks
    • Some kind of swag15
    • Some way to make your project interactive16
  • Booth Interior
    • Cooler, water, ice17
    • Paper bags or swag bags18
  • Feedback
    • Suggestion box, 3×5 index cards, pens19
    • Notepad for email list signup
    • LOTS of maker/business cards
    • Update the website before Maker Faire!20
  • Robot
    • Hardware21
    • 3mm hex wrench22
    • Metric ruler23
    • Paper ((One $5 roll is good enough to run a PlotterBot around the clock all entire weekend))
    • Pens and markers24
    • Blue painter’s tape and masking tape
    • Extra fishing line25
  1. Photo courtesy of Daniel Kulinski []
  2. Editor’s choice blue ribbon! []
  3. I heard an amusing anecdote from someone at Make who said they put a lot of time and energy into figuring out a good spot for all the makers.  Apparently they were a little concerned about having three drawing / art style robots next to one another!  I had a great time hanging out near PicassoBot and PancakeBot! []
  4. My daughter later pointed out there were three robots, in a row, all with a “P” in the start of their name []
  5. As a Maker, I could eat at the Maker Lounge, but the credit card machine was intermittent []
  6. This could be a whole topic in itself.  Two days is not enough to catch all the talks from just one stage.  With multiple stages, multiple demonstrations, mini-concerts all happening at the same time  []
  7. Or not.  There were several booths giving away these stringy sack kind of backpacks []
  8. Maker Faire is big and there’s a lot to see.  Although there are a lot of food options, you don’t necessarily want to drop what you’re doing just to go find food []
  9. Ideally, a portable one []
  10. Just a hoodie should be enough []
  11. These were necessary for my particular robot, but may not be for you and definitely not if you’re just attending []
  12. $15 each at KMart []
  13. Printed with clear plastic cover, spiral bound, about $7 []
  14. About $3 for a huge roll – perfect for keeping kids from rushing into your booth []
  15. Business cards, stickers, t-shirts, to any other kinds of trinkets out there []
  16. These are really the most fun kinds of exhibits/booths/projects at Maker Faire []
  17. It gets super hot and stuffy if you’re indoors, so water is key []
  18. To stow extra clothing and supplies []
  19. Pens can be donated from the hotel []
  20. Ideally, with a link to the mailing list and/or squeeze page []
  21. Bolts, washers, wingnuts []
  22. The entire robot can be assembled or disassembled with a single 3mm hex wrench []
  23. 1 meter stick or yard stick with metric markings []
  24. A whole new pack []
  25. This has never broken or tangled on me, but it’s not a bad idea to bring extra []

Printable Prosthetics: Brainstorming

An illustrative hand

An illustrative hand

My overall designs for a printable parametric hand are still far from done.  And, yet, I’ve come a long long way since jumping headfirst into the realm of open source prosthetics a little more than 30 days ago.12

Forgive the digression, dear reader, before I return you to considerations of prosthetics. After visiting the Asian Art Museum today with the family, I am feeling particularly inspired to discuss dualities.3 I find I am an often-inspired person. This is a very charitable way to describe myself by what would otherwise colloquially and clinically be considered ADHD. When I am inspired by a new topic, I tend to jump right into it – reading voraciously and trying to learn as much about it as I can. When this happens, I also tend to set aside whatever thing I was most recently working on. This means that recently I’ve done little work on drawing robots (big and small) and a multitude of other small projects that would otherwise be just amazing. However, such inspirations/distractions are not only external to a project – but can also be very much internal to a project. Consider, for instance, feature creep – the adding of ever more features to a project, usually at a faster rate than which features are resolved and refined. In order to combat this aspect of my nature, the wanting to add more and better features, I have developed a coping mechanism. To prevent myself from falling down the rabbit hole of features and improvements, I jot them down someplace – either in a blog post4 , in an email to myself, or in a notebook.5 I find that once I’ve externalized and memorialized an idea, I can continue working on a project unfettered and undistracted these other ideas.

To this end, and in the spirit of open source ideals, I will jot down some ideas while I have them:

  • How large and how small are prosthetic designs typically scaled?
    • I wanted to have a range of sizes for which my designs were optimized.  My guess would be no smaller than 85% and not much more than 160% of the size of the existing  Cyborg Beast.  Jorge Zuniga was, again, patient enough to discuss this with me.  His estimate of a range would be between about 105 – 150%.
  • What is the diameter of the Chicago Screws typically used in the creation of a Cyborg Beast?
    • From the retailer’s website, it appears the “barrel” diameter is 0.2 inches, or 5.08mm.  I’ll need to make some adjustments to holes for the Chicago Screws in the designs.
  • How important is hyperextension of these fingers?
    • The designs of the Cyborg Beast include fingers that can bend “backwards” very slightly.  Each finger joint includes a “stop” at the back of the joint.  While certainly useful, I question their necessity.  I previously designed a connection system for printable snap-fit parts ((For use in an equally noble project)) that connect very tightly and/or bend with a user specified degree of movement.  The point with me mentioning these parts is that the “stop” used at the back of each knuckle and joint in the Cyborg Beast may not be necessary at all.
  • How necessary are metal Chicago Screws to strength and durability of the hand and fingers?  
    • Before you laugh, consider this question – what is the weakest point of any given finger which uses a metal Chicago Screw when having to deal with lateral forces?  I would postulate the weakest points would be those thin plastic parts surrounding the Chicago Screws themselves.  Thus, even though the hand incorporates metal pins, I have to wonder just how much strength they are providing to the overall device.  It would be easy to conceive of a plastic prosthetic hand that was so small that there wasn’t a lot of plastic around each metal screw6.  In such a case, the weakest points would be plastic surrounding the metal parts.  Extending this conjecture, of what use are metal fasteners to a design that is primarily plastic?  The best guess I can offer is that they allow reliable and smooth operation.
  • Work on proportional fingers
    • In designing the fingers, I worked to be able to make them customizable in several different ways.  The user may specify whether the fingers have the “star grip” pads, whether the finger should be slightly shorter or longer, and scale the finger up or down – without distortion to the hardware and cord channels.
    • I need to add at least three additional options to these parametric designs.  The designs should include the option to add “mouse ears” and easily removable support structures.  Additionally, the design should also allow the user to change the diameter of the finger.  I did implement this, somewhat, in part of the design.  Without implementation throughout the entire design, these partial attempts aren’t helpful.
    • In creating the fingers shown above, I adjusted their lengths to conform to the measurements of my own hand.7 Next time, I think I would also measure finger diameters.
    • I think I should create a way to prevent finger parts from being mixed up accidentally while printing.  A possible solution is to include “mouse ears” with each finger – but embed an identifying mark in each mouse ear to label the parts.
  • Ideas on making a better parametric palm
    • The palm should be redesigned so that the fingers, at the appropriate lengths, would fit into it.  I designed the fingers quite a while since working on the palm.  I haven’t had a chance to ensure the parts would mesh well without adjustment to the scale.
    • On an entirely different note, I have an idea to redesign the entire palm.  By carefully placing deformed spheres, I was able to design a palm.  Using a similar process, I subtracted out a void for the user’s hand.  The result is a palm with an uneven thickness throughout.  Uniform thickness isn’t necessarily an interesting or useful goal.  That said, it could lead to a reduction in unnecessary plastic.  If I were to redesign the palm, I could design the internal area first8 – and then use the “Minkowski” function to create a uniformly thick shell around the internal form.  The bottom would have to be sliced off and the original internal area would need to be subtracted from it.
  • Ideas on making a more realistic hand
    • My designs so far are based primarily on the Cyborg Beast, with some minor changes.  The “Flexy-Handappears to be very organic and realistic.  It also features flexible printed connections between each finger segment.  Additionally, each finger is comprised of three segments – rather than two like the Cyborg Beast.  Interestingly, since the flexible connections between segments allows the hand to return to an “open” position, the hand only requires five tension cords – rather than five tension cords and five elastic cords.  The fingers appear to not have any “stops” behind each joint.  I have to wonder how having three segments to each finger impacts the function.  Does it allow the hand to better grip things?  Does it make the hand less sturdy?
  • Masculine/Feminine hands
    • One well-intentioned comment to my latest designs is that they are “pretty.”9 While I accept the compliment with the spirit in which it was given, it immediately made me wonder – is the hand I designed “feminine?”  Then it occurred to me that with more design effort, I could make “feminine” and “masculine” version of these hands.  I think the primary differences would be two-fold – thinner fingers and a less “hefty” palm for a more feminine version and a thicker and perhaps more “blocky” palm for a more masculine hand.
  • New developments
    • There have been a number of interesting and new developments and experiments of late.10 In no particular order, these ideas are:
  • Discussions with a 7-year-old
    • A few days ago my daughter and I were jotting down some ideas in my sketchbook.  As we did so, she saw some of the notes from the e-NABLE meeting on 3/21/2014 – including several sketches.  We discussed the problem – affordable, customized, and comfortable prosthetics.  We talked about amniotic band syndrome, how fibrous amniotic bands affect fetuses, and the different ways in which these bands can cause11 deformities to single fingers, whole hands, and a range of changes in between.  I explained how Mr. Jose Delgado Jr. had a $42,000.00 myoelectric prosthetic, the problems he has with that prosthetic, how and why he prefers his $50.00 printed replacement, and how for the price of his one prosthetic people could make 840 more prosthetics.12 She asked, “Why can’t someone use a stump to operate a hand?” I replied that this was exactly how these prosthetics worked – and I drew a few simplified sketches of the Cyborg Beast.  Her next question was, “Why can’t it move side to side?”  I said that Mr. David Ogreman had designed such a prosthetic.
  1. My first concrete step was going to an e-NABLE meeting in San Francisco on 3/21/2014. []
  2. The above picture is slightly misleading.  I haven’t confirmed that the fingers I’ve designed will properly fit into the palm that I’ve designed – or that the thumb would work at all.  Thus, the picture is partially a parlor trick and partially an indication of where I hope to take this design. []
  3. Many of the gods and goddesses in Eastern religions embody dual natures – creation/destruction, life/death, etc []
  4. In one of my several different blogs. Besides, what could be more ADHD than having 3+ blogs?!? []
  5. You may not find this as amusing as I do – but I probably have about four different sketch/notebooks. []
  6. Say, only 1mm []
  7. From pinky finger to thumb, the non-scientific measurements from knuckle to finger/thumb tip were 77mm, 102mm, 106mm, 92mm, and 72mm []
  8. Using the deformed spheres and hull trick []
  9. Thanks Erik! []
  10. I don’t even know why I’m saying “of late” when I’ve really only been involved a little over 30 days.  I guess becuase these developments are new to me? []
  11. Please forgive my lack of a more politically correct term.  If you’ve got a better or more sensitive phrase, please let me know as I will gladly adopt it []
  12. She wanted to know if he could get a refund! []