Z axis wobble from bearings?

I’ve seen it suggested on the MakerBot Operator’s group (I forget who…) that Z axis rod wobble can be introduced where the bearings fit on the Z axis rods.  This is an interesting possible source of error… and a solution!

It would seem that if the placement of the bearing on the rod can introduce warp, it might be able to slightly counteract warp as well.  I’ve gotten my Z axis wobble mostly under control.

Differences between MakerBot Batch 9 and 10

Someone recently posted on the MakerBot operators group that there were some minor steps missing on the MakerBot Batch 10 instructions.  Just so you know the three things that person pointed out were fixed almost immediately.  You’re NEVER going to get that kind of service from IKEA.

In any case, this gave me the idea of perusing the Batch 10 instructions to see how they differ from my Batch 9 ‘bot.  Here’s what I’ve noticed:

  1. Different build order.  The Batch 9 ‘bot instructions show the body being built first, then the XY stage, then the plastruder.  Batch 10 shows the XY stage, then body, then plastruder.  I think you could probably build the Batch 9 ‘bot in the Batch 10 order without a problem.
  2. Different Y stage caps.  Batch 10 ‘bots appear to be using an Y stage cap that has more room for the pulley that rides on the Y stage.  My guess is that this will probably buy you a few precious millimeters of print space.  (The pictures say X stage end caps…  but it looks like the Y stage to me.)
  3. Different Y stage pulley.  Unlike my batch 9 bot, these instructions show assembly with a manufactured toothed idler pulley.  I have no idea what benefit is conferred by having teeth on that pulley.  Perhaps it is less prone to slipping on the belt?  Perhaps it makes it easier to tension the Y pulley without disassembling the Y stage?
  4. Different X axis pulley.  This manufactured toothed idler pulley looks similar to the one on the Y stage.

Why the toothed idler pulleys?

MakerBot Cupcake CNC print resolution

Some people have asked me about the MakerBot’s print resolution.  Although this information can be found on the MakerBot wiki, there’s no harm in disseminating this data. 1  Before I get into some of the technical stuff, let me just say this – the print resolution is pretty freaking good for a $750 DIY robot and it will give a $15,000 commercial printer a run for it’s money.

As a printer that can create objects in three dimensions the normal two-dimensional printer resolution jargon of “DPI” or “dots per inch” doesn’t mean much.  The printing resolution for the X/Y axes is 0.085mm and the resolution for the Z axis is 3.125 microns.  Most of the time you’re going to have a Z axis resolution of about 1/3 of a millimeter.  If you print with layers much smaller than that it will take forever to print without a huge increase in quality.

Or, to put it another way…  if you were to hand me two objects one printed on a MakerBot and one printed on a commercial printer, I’m going to ask you why the heck one of them costs $14,000 more than the other.  I’ve printed some pretty intricate and detailed stuff on my MakerBot.  As I tune it I hope to improve it even more.

  1. If you haven’t poked around the website, I highly recommend it.  There’s a lot of information about the Cupcake CNC, RepRap, fused deposition modeling, robots, and all sorts of stuff. []

Blind reading the blind…

I just noticed there’s a Twitter feed ( http://twitter.com/CanMakeIt ) following this blog.  Since my post titles tend to be more whimsical and self-referential than informative, I feel kinda bad for anyone mislead into clicking on the titles.

If you’re one of those who came to this blog wondering what the hell I’m babbling about…  um, sorry.  I’m frequently off topic.  Sorry for clogging up your RepRap aggregated feed!

Repairing ABS parts

The spout on the black teapot on the left snapped off as I was trying to clean the model.  I don’t have any ABS glue lying around so I tried white glue – which didn’t work at all.  Later I held up the broken piece and the body of the teapot to my hot extruder barrel and melted them back together.  Clearly not a recommended way to repair a part – but it’s been pretty effective.

Funny AND sad!

We’ll call it a traumedy!  (Or comma?)

I have several websites, but only blog on two.  This one, of course, which is really only about two and a half months old.  And the other which is a little over two and a half years old. 1  75 days versus 900 days.

After 75 days, this site has significantly more actual followers.

Oh jeez – was this another post about posting?

  1. It has nothing whatsoever to do with MakerBot, RepRap, or anything interesting. []

New thing idea

I want to design a printable plastic wall anchor.  I’m posting the thought here in case I get hit by a bus and don’t get around to modeling one of these.

Like my zip tie (seriously, it was totally worthless – don’t bother to print it), I like the idea of having a library of every day stuff I could print if I suddenly have the need.  For instance, remember that day last week when you were wandering around your place wishing you had an extra SD chip blank?

Anyhow, it reminds me of the matter compilers from Neal Stephenson’s The Diamond Age.