Hi Rez Printing Problems

The stuff nightmares are made of: 1/4 of Disney's head
The stuff nightmares are made of: 1/4 of Disney's head

Earlier I had wondered about some of the challenges facing high resolution printing.  Specifically, I had suggested that a lower resolution would be better for overhangs, speed, and (after the suggestion of Erik) interlayer adhesion.

It looks like Dave Durant has a proof of concept with 1/4 of Disney’s head. 1  The layer height is unbelievably small – but as he points out:

Even smallish overhangs seem to be far harder to print at this layer height. I tried to print this one several times and it always went pear shaped as it got close to his chin, which is a pretty agressive overhang. Serious blobbage. :(

This certainly seems to demonstrate the flip side of my hypothesis – that thin layers are not good for printing overhangs.  I’ve been printing with a layer height of about 0.33mm.  This seems to give me enough resolution and overhang printability to make whatever I’ve needed so far.  However, I think it also gives us a reason to have several different configurations for a MakerBot for each kind of plastic:

  1. Thin layer printing
  2. Good overhang printing
  3. High speed/thick layer printing
  4. Printing small holes?

What other kinds of profiles would you suggest?

  1. Dave – your Flickr account says all rights reserved.  Obviously, I’m attributing this to you.  If you would like me to remove the picture, I will do so. [↩]

Clothbot’s distillation of OSHW

I really like Andrew Plumb‘s distillation of the Open Source Hardware (OSHW) Draft Definition version 0.3.  I’d hate to see it get lost in Twitter history, so here it is:

  1. Documentation: Establish & facilitate the right to repair.
  2. Necessary Software: Operates using Free Open Source Software.
  3. Derived Works: The right to fork the project.
  4. Free Redistribution: Pay for parts, not permissions. No restrictions on the sale of parts.
  5. Attribution: Give credit where it’s due.
  6. No Discrimination Against Persons or Groups: Respect is earned.
  7. No Discrimination Against Fields of Endeavor: Make recommendations, not restrictions.
  8. Distribution of License: Share Alike.
  9. License Must Not Be Specific to a Product: The right to re-use.
  10. License Must Not Restrict Other Hardware Or Software: Play well with others.
  11. License Must Be Technology Neutral: The right to modify.

Edit:  See more amazing distillations, machinations, imaginations, and mastications at the Clothbot wiki!

I <3 UV LED

Making a sonic screwdriver is all well and good.  I own a commercially produced version of the 10th Doctor’s blue LED screwdriver.  But, as a screwdriver it’s just crap.  As a flashlight, it is underwhelming.  Also, it’s not red, so it will kill your night vision.  There’s just no really good use or call for it.  That said…  I think it is fantastic.  I just am realistic that while I enjoy this thing, it serves no particular purpose.

But, what if I could have a small sonic screwdriver like device that had a purpose?  Well, then I suppose I would end up using it.  Thus, I came to think about how to make a potentially useless prop/replica useful.  I could add a screwdriver attachment to it – which would be damn hilarious.  I could make the light red instead of blue – so it could be used at night and not affect night vision.  I could make it super bright – so that it IS good as a flashlight.  I could make it so that it has a Tic-Tac-shakey rechargeable flashlight.  If it were a shakey rechargeable flashlight, it would be very useful in emergencies – since it would never be without power.

After consideration, I think the best use of a sonic screwdriver shaped device would be a flashlight that incorporated a shake recharger and some combination of a UV LED and either a a red (for night vision) or white LED (for a bright light).  And, space allowing, maybe even a hex screwdriver bit.  I could see how such a device, which would never need new batteries, could come in useful in a lot of situations.  It could be both frivolous and functional!  My favorite combination!

I don’t really know how to read circuit diagrams, but I think I could assemble the simple circuit from that instructible.  It shouldn’t be too much harder to add a three-position switch for the second LED.  Although, if I had to choose just one LED it would definitely be the UV kind.

MakerBot Hi Rez Printing Secrets revealed!

Warning: All responses from Dave are real, in the correct order, and unchanged.  I may have embellished my questions and responses.

  • MakerBlock: Dave!  How do you spell your last name?
    • Dave: dduranT.. T!!!! :P
  • MakerBlock: How exotic!  I’m having trouble pronouncing the last bit, so I hope you don’t mind me just calling you “Dave.”  Well, how did you do it?  Oh, and what’s your favorite vodka?
    • Dave: Patience, practice, Grey Goose.
  • MakerBlock: In two words or less, did you print slowly or fast?
    • Dave: Really, REALLY fastly.
  • MakerBlock: Um, I guess that counts.   I mean, you did only use two words – but you used one of them twice.  And I don’t think “fastly” is a real word.  Did you run the extruder slow or fast?  Please be sure and end your response with a preposition.
    • Dave: Slow but not as slow as I expected I’d have to.
  • MakerBlock: Did you use a custom nozzle or the standard MakerBot nozzle?
    • Dave: I do have a 0.35mm hot end from makergear.com (props to makergear – much awesome to be found there) but haven’t installed it yet. I’m still using the 0.5mm nozzle from MBI.
  • MakerBlock: Could you describe your setup for us?  Please be sure and include at least one plug for your all-time favorite MakerBot / RepRap blog written by me.
  • MakerBlock: Dave, it’s been great having you on the show.  Thank you for coming to speak to us and we’d love to have you back any time.

New MakerBot high resolution record!

MakerBot high resolution printing
MakerBot high resolution printing

Update:  Since this post others have achieved sub-0.1mm layer prints with their MakerBots as low as 0.075mm/layer

Ddurand123 has probably just taken the world record for highest resolution.  The current record holder is Rick Pollack at 0.15mm per layer.  Ddurant123 was able to print a 10mm test cube at 0.1mm per layer.

Dave!  How did you do it?

Did you print slowly or fast?

Did you run the extruder slow or fast?

Did you use a custom nozzle or the standard MakerBot nozzle?

Edit:  Dave, sonny abuut misspenning your nmae.  My bed.

My Ultimate Bag

Bag without notes
Bag without notes

In college I used to carry a camera bag where I kept my stuff.  Car keys, notebook, pens, pencils, etc.  This was an old faux-leather camera bag my dad used to use years ago.  I loved that thing.  Unfortunately, it was stolen out of a friend’s car while we were at a concert.

Over the next few years I thought about what I liked about that bag, what I liked about other bags I had seen, and what I would want in an ultimate bag.  I wanted a bag made from tough canvas, hopefully as tough or tougher as denim, and preferably a khaki color.  I ended up going with a relatively thick canvas from a fabric store.

I also wanted a bag that was big enough to accommodate a full size 3″ binder (the type I thought I might use in grad school), small pockets, wide pockets, a large pocket, and a spot for pens and pencils.  It has thick nylon straps around the bag for holding it together and surprisingly expensive plastic buckles.  I sewed the entire thing with khaki colored upholstery thread.

Bag with notes
Bag with notes

If I were to re-make this bag, I would change several things:

  1. I would try to put the pen holder flaps horizontally rather than vertically.  When the bag is mostly empty the vertical pens poke the bag flap upwards.  I think the bag would probably fit better if pen holders were horizontal.  It would also make it easier to reach in and grab a pen when the top flap is buckled down.
  2. I think it would be pretty useful to have one or two small pockets on either side for stowing away a pen on the outside of the bag.
  3. I don’t really ever use both long pockets.  I’d probably nix one.
  4. I’m always using the four small pockets – they’re incredibly useful.  I’d definitely keep those.  However, I think they might be even more useful if they had a velcro flap to keep them closed.  I have a feeling velcro is a lot easier to attach than zippers.  On top of that, zippers can jam – velcro is basically all good.
  5. I would make the large interior pocket a little wider.  It’s about four inches wide – it could be widened to about six or so.
  6. I would absolutely, positively print all of the plastic buckles on my MakerBot.
  7. I would add a plastic lanyard/carabineer/key hook.  Sometimes I want to toss my keys in and don’t want to worry about them bouncing out (not that they ever have).
  8. When I sewed it together I used a setting on the sewing machine that put the thread seams really close together.  With the thickness of the thread and the closeness of the seams, this ended up essentially making perforations in the cloth.  I would still use thick canvas and thick upholstery thread, but I would set the seams to be wider apart.
  9. I’ve often thought that the bag would be a little better if it were lined or reversible.  If I’m going to line the bag, I might as well make it reversible anyhow.  If I did this, I would make one side black and one side khaki color.  I’ve used this bag as a pillow more than once – and having two layers would make it more…  fluffy.
  10. I’ve been caught in the rain with this bag on more than one occasion.  While this has never been much of a problem, I think a thicker canvas (perhaps the kind used as a painter’s tarp – the kind that’s partially sealed with plastic and/or rubber) would make an excellent water repellent version.
  11. I’ve taken to carrying zip ties in my laptop backpack.  They’re just always useful.  I think it would be nifty to have a long thin pocket where I could stash a few of these.  They would take up practically no room and also act like ribbing.
  12. Have you ever taken a good look at those luggage tags at the airport?  Whenever I go to an airport, I always snag several of them.  They are springy and very very difficult to break.
  13. I would definitely use a much wider carrying strap.  I think something about three inches thick would be ideal.  Perhaps seat belt strap material?
  14. What about a spot for sticky notes (already there in the small pockets), a cell phone, sunglasses, bluetooth, or camera?  Maybe a spot for my sonic screwdriver…
Custom Every Day Carry Bag
  1. My Ultimate Bag
  2. Custom Every Day Carry (EDC) Bag
  3. Sewing Practice
  4. EDC Bag Materials, Designs, Etc
  5. Off the rack options for EDC bags

I don’t know what I’m doing

Not that this has ever stopped me from doing stuff before.

My MakerBot kit was my first foray into robotics.  Or electronics, for that matter.  Frankly, if I can do it you can too.  Even so, talk about blowing out a MOFSET1 is enough to make me very cautious about how I upgrade my bot’s electronics.  All I know about this MOFSET thing is that it is bad if it burns out – and it can burn out with enough (or not enough???) power.

In any case, I need to make sure I pick up a whatchamacallit Relay Board Kit when I grab a heated build platform kit.

  1. Whatever that is! [↩]

Why do I care what you think about awesome robots?

Actually, it’s pretty simple.  I really enjoy blogging about my MakerBot, stuff I make, how I make it, what I see other people do with their Makerbots, and awesome robots in general.  It helps me get ideas for things to write, things to design, and things to make – and hopefully things you like to read.

Heck, some of my favorite things only came about because someone e-mailed me or commented on one of these posts.  (I mean, a soft-pawed albino stoat of Southern Wales???  WTF?  That was so much fun!)

Mysteries of the tall print

There’s a new Tall Print record holder in town.  Brian J. Pierce aka Chooch printed a 154mm tall Chicago’s Willis Tower.  Brian reveals the secret: “My bot is hacked, but using mostly original parts that came with the kit and printed parts to achieve the new record.”

What’s the hack?  Well, Brian says in the comments, “I’ll be releasing the Pfierce Z-axis extender kit in a couple of weeks.  It comes with 6 spacers and a new and improved z axis crank.”  Below is a crop of picture of Brian’s setup.

Chooch's Vertical Hack
Chooch's Vertical Hack

I think there’s a lot of interesting stuff in this setup:

  1. It looks like Brian’s got a Z axis wobble arrester.  I can’t tell if it is NateTrue’s Wobble Arresting Z bracket or TwoTimes’ Wobble Arrester.  If I had to guess, I’d think it’s NateTrue’s – since there are no visible straight rods.
  2. Check out the build quality on the Z axis wobble arrester – it’s terrible!!!
  3. Now, check out the build quality on the print – it’s pretty good!  Nice job!  I guess that arrester is working.
  4. If you look at the place where the top panel meets the sides, you can see printed bits.  It looks like he’s used a series of “spacers” (perhaps 6?) to raise the top panel above the sides.