A website just about drawing robots

Itty Bitty Tiny CNC Drawing Robot

Itty Bitty Tiny CNC Drawing Robot

Lately I’ve been working on drawing robots more and more. My latest creation is an itty bitty Tiny CNC drawing robot. I’ve already published the files and Arduino sketch on Thingiverse, but you’ll find all of the instructions over on my PlotterBot blog.  While this site is about 3D printing and random nonsense, I’ve tried to only post stuff directly related to drawing robots over on this new website.

If drawing robots are your cup of tea, then please take a minute and check out my other side.  :)

PlotterBot.com – a new site dedicated to drawing robots

Moving time!

Moving time!

I’ve been working on and blogging about my PlotterBot, through several incarnations, for a little over a year now.1 The posts on this site have always tended to be a mixture of near-incoherent ramblings, frivolity, and the occasional nuggets of information.  However, since showing off my PlotterBot at the Maker Faire Bay Area 2013 it really feels like that project deserves a website of its own.

While I’ll still discuss my PlotterBot and related experiments here, my goal is to make PlotterBot.com a resource for people who are interested in building an awesome drawing robot of their very own.  If you’ve enjoyed reading about my DrawBot adventures here, I hope you’ll sign up for my Plotterbot.com newsletter and stay tuned for some tutorials on how to build and get the most from your own drawing robot.

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  1. Photo courtesy of cmorran123 []

Your vote could stop the Robopocalypse!

Okay, before you read any further, take a moment to click here and vote for my PlotterBot for the Road to Maker Faire Challenge.

Vote for our future.  Vote PlotterBot!

Vote for our future. Vote PlotterBot!

I’ve been blogging about every little aspect of my own drawing robot – with this post1 it’s more than 80 posts on the topic. ((Photo courtesy of Vox Efx)) Everything from a list of other robots, to where I sourced the parts, to my failed attempts at designing parts, and a lot more posts about what I’ve done that does work.  Using what I’ve learned from my own really colossal failures and the brilliant open source work of others like Sandy Noble and Dan Royer, I’ve designed all of my own printable plastic parts from scratch, explained my thoughts and considerations behind the designs in excruciating detail, and shared all the files and my source code for everyone to use.

The winner of Maker Faire’s contest “The Road to Maker Faire Challenge” gets $2,500.00.  Dear gentle reader, should I be fortunate enough to win – I hereby make you these two promises:

  1. I promise to spend every last dime on building more and better robots.
  2. I promise to continue blogging relentlessly about what I did, how I did it, what worked, what didn’t work, and how you do it all yourself too.

So, please vote for my PlotterBot for the Road to Maker Faire Challenge!

  1. Which really doesn’t count… []

Drawing Robot Penmanship

Not a robotic pen holder

Not a robotic pen holder

Until very recently, I had only considered a drawing robot’s pen holder maintaining the pen at an angle to the drawing surface as an obvious and positive thing.1 I have now been cured of such illusions and understand that when the pen is mounted at something other than perfectly perpendicular to the drawing surface, it is possible for the pen tip skip or stutter across the drawing surface.

I’ve already droned on at length about the various ideal attributes I considered while designing a pen holder.  In light of this new important attribute of pen tilt other than perpendicular causing pen skipping, would I modify my design?

It probably depends.

First let’s consider what causes the skipping itself.  It seems to occur when the pen holder moves faster than the pen tip “wants” to be dragged across the drawing surface.  The result is that the pen tip tilts slightly with an upward movement instead of drawing upward for a short distance, then the pen holder swings a little to compensate for the upward jerk, then the pen tip skips upward – leaving a gap the pen tip skipped over. (I feel like I”m not explaining this well…)

Once I read that post by Dan, I did some half-scientific tests.2 I dragged the pen holder around on the drawing surface.  This is not even close to an operational simulation because I’m sure I didn’t keep the pen steady and the pen holder would almost never move that quickly.  I found that when the pen was moved very quickly upwards, the entire pen holder would indeed skip.  I tried the same “experiment” again after having adjusted the pen so that it was perpendicular to the drawing surface.  This time the pen still skipped – just a little less than when it was at a 15 degree tilt in the pen holder.  However, the pen I was using was a big marker.

Setting aside the pen tilt for a moment, I can’t think of any other benefits besides skip-reduction behind putting the pen perpendicular to the drawing surface.  The next thing to consider is whether all pens skip equally.  Not having actually performed a specific test to determine this, and speaking only from experiences in using different pens, I would suggest that not all pens skip equally.  Specifically, good ball point gel based pens do not appear to skip when operated very quickly.  In fact, running a gel based ball point pen seems to work quite well since it seemed to keep the itty-bitty ball inside the pen tip moving, which keeps the ink flowing.

I would suggest that the desirable pen holder tilt would depend upon (a) pen holder speed and (b) type of pen possibly as follows:

Marker, perpendicular Ball Point Pen, perpendicular Marker, tilted Ball Point Pen, tilted
Fast Pen Holder I would hypothesize a fast moving marker is going to skip whether it is mounted perpendicularly or not.However, from a semi-scientific test, I a tilted marker would skip a little more.  It is important to note that a marker will draw equally well whether it is perpendicular or tilted. First, gel ball point pen will quickly stop being able to draw ink if it is not held at a tilt.  A non-gel ink ball point pen might not have this problem since at least some of the ink comes through via capillary action.Either way, drawing perpendicularly is a problem for ball point pens.  However, since their tip makes a small point of contact with the drawing surface, they don’t seem to suffer from skipping problems, even at high speed. I don’t think a marker held at an angle is going to draw lines any better or worse than one that is held perpendicularly.However, my limited testing suggests that markers drawing at an angle quickly will skip a little more than quick drawing markers held perpendicularly. I suspect a ball point pen of almost any kind would work well if drawing at an angle.  Almost every single drawing made with my first drawing robot was done with ball point pens operating at about a 30-45 degree angle.Admittedly, that robot never drew very quickly, but then again I never seemed to have problems with skipping.
Slow Pen Holder If a pen holder with a marker is moving too slowly, the result will be ink bleeding all over the drawing and through the paper and pens that dry or run out too quickly.  It’s really quite a mess.I suspect that running any marker too fast is going to cause skipping problems – whether it is at an angle or not.  A marker’s tip either starts out much wider than a ball point pen, or it will end up that way after hours of drawing and being dragged across a large sheet of paper.  In my experience, using a marker in this fashion will basically make the marker unsuitable for any other purpose. With the caveat that pretty much any kind of ball point pen is going to have a difficult time drawing perpendicular to a vertical drawing surface, I would posit that moving the pen slow-to-medium would result in gaps in the drawings.  However, I think those gaps in the drawing would likely be more due to the ball point pen not have sufficient friction to keep ink flowing consistently. A slow moving marker makes about as much of a mess as an oil spill.Even assuming a medium-speed marker, I don’t think skipping would be that big a problem as long as the pen was not tilted at too severe an angle. A ball point pen could probably be operated anywhere between slow and fast.As long as the pen is moving relatively continuously, a ball point pen should be able to provide a continuous stream of ink.

Taking into account the potential for skipping, I would suggest based on the analysis above, that skipping is a problem for markers no matter the angle and largely irrelevant for ball point pens.  I would also suggest that a very slight pen holder tilt of 15 degrees is extremely helpful, if not crucial, to ball point pens and mostly irrelevant to markers.

Hey Dan, what do you think?

Last but not least, this is post #80 in this DrawBot Adventure Series!  And there’s still so much to cover!

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  1. Photo courtesy of Creative Tools []
  2. Which, I suppose is not much better than not-scientific… []

Skipping! How could I forget the skipping?!

Hubris, I haz it

Hubris, I haz it

Mr. Noble is not the only one prone to hubris.1 After taking into account every post on ideal drawing robot pen holder criteria, I found one more post that I should have read first.  Dan Royer of MarginallyClever.com suggests2 as good pen holder should:

  1. A single cord convergence point.  “Have the two strings meet at a single point, or as close as possible.  The moment they separate the math gets really ugly.”
  2. Deal with friction.  “Friction causes the pen to drag and lean.  If I tell the robot to draw a square corner and it comes out rounded then I know my pen is dragging because it never reached the corner.  The pen has to stay at a right angle to the drawing surface.  So far I’ve found that having at least three points of contact is enough to eliminate the problem.  That’s why I tape my business card to an eye bolt on the bottom of the ring – the bottom edge of the card forms a large contact area with very little friction.”
  3. Be well balanced.  “If the pen is balanced wrong it may point up or down.  If it points up then it might go dry.  If it points down then it might have extra friction when moving downwards, causing the pen to skip and create a dotted line.”
  4. Have an easy way to switch pens.  “Not only should it be easy to replace a pen but every pen should “lock” into the pen holder at the same distance and angle from the drawing surface.  In order to simplify this problem I only use one kind of pen that comes in many colors.”
  5. Works on a slanted surface.  “Works on both vertical and slanted surfaces up to a maximum of 10 degrees.”

My own prior post on ideal characteristics in a pen holder took into account Dan’s number 1, 3, 4 and considered 5.  What I failed to consider was how friction can cause the pen to skip or stutter when the pen is mounted at an angle and the pen travels upwards.

Although I started diving into this consideration, but I’m putting all that over-pontification into its own post.  This post is really about (a) Dan considered a very important factor in pen holder construction which I neglected and (b) how awesome open source is.  My own pen holder would be a terribly complicated mess doomed to multiple revisions had I not had the benefit of being able to review a veritable legion of pen holders used by many many other people in their many many different kinds of vertical drawing robots.

So – Yay Dan!  Huzzah open source!

The next post will be about whether this consideration would cause me to change my existing pen holder design.

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  1. Photo courtesy of Markus Krispler []
  2. I’m keeping all of Dan’s words, but reformatting them []

Fire the DrawBot!

Last night I connected my newly designed pen holder to my finished drawing robot and attempted a relatively “quick” drawing of Yoda.  I say “quick,” because it only took about two hours.  The one lone trade-off for having an cheap and easy to build robot capable of essentially unlimited drawing sizes is that it can take a long time.  I took several photographs of my robot while it was drawing and turned them into an animated GIF, featured at the end.

Finished and mounted robot, with old pen holder

Finished and mounted robot, with old pen holder

Above is the robot itself, mounted to the wall.  I’ve made two minor changes to this setup since that photo, detailed just below.  First, I’ve placed a large sheet of sacrificial cardboard under the paper so that any pen leaks will not mar the wall.  Second, since the “home point” (exactly 130mm down from the exact midpoint between the two spots where the cord leaves the project box) is hidden by the paper when I pull it down, I needed a way to be able to center the robot without having to re-measure the home point each time.  My solution was to take a small piece of leftover plastic about the size of a pinhead and tape it to the home point on the cardboard.  Now, I can feel the home point through the sheet of paper and center the pen holder accordingly.

Home point for centering the pen holder

Home point for centering the pen holder

It’s a little difficult to make out in the photo above, but you can see the two big arrows pointing to the home point and a slight bulge in the tape caused by the small plastic speck.

Brand new pen holder, assembled

Brand new pen holder, assembled

This picture shows the pen holder fully assembled.  I operated it the first time without the benefit of a servo motor cable.  I wanted to see if the pen holder would work well.  Once the drawing was about 2/3 done and I was pretty happy with the pen holder’s operation, I soldered up a cable to connect the servo lift port to the servo motor.

Drawing robot in action

Drawing robot in action

The above animated GIF is comprised of eight separate photos from my digital camera on a tripod, combined in GIMP.  I’ve never to make an animated GIF from a series of photos, but it very quick and painless.  Since video takes up a lot of space and battery power, I figured a series of photos would be the easiest way to create a “time lapse” of the robot’s operation.  You don’t get the low drone and hum of the motors, but you can see how it operates.  Now that I’ve done one, I’m looking forward to making more of these.

Yoda, standing tall

Yoda, standing tall

And here is Yoda!  As you can see from the ruler next to him, he’s about 35 inches tall from the tip of the lightsaber to his feet.  There’s a “band” of the drawing that appears to be shifted downwards slightly, causing a little overlap at the bottom of that region and a slight gap above.  This is probably due to me fiddling with the robot, but it could also be due to the motors slipping or skipping slightly during operation.  If it was due to me fiddling with the robot, then the fix is simple – I just need to be more patient.  If it was due to the motors skipping steps, then turning up the pots just a little would probably fix that.  Given that this is the very first drawing from my very first draft of a new pen holder, I’m really happy with the result.

A Study of Drawing Robot Pen Holders and Design Considerations

MakerBlock's Cardboard Gondola, Annotated

MakerBlock’s Cardboard Gondola, Annotated

The pen holder for a drawing robot is one of the most deceptively simple aspects of the entire machine.  Stripped down to the most basic elements, the pen holder is nothing more than a small device used to connect to both cords from each motor to the pen.  However, there are a number of extremely important, and subtle, design considerations that are not immediately evident.

Since Hektor’s debut in 2002, and arguably as far back as SIGGRAPH in 1988, people have been working on vertical pen plotters.  In that time

I guess I should start this post with a discussion of the different gondolas out there.

In no particular order they are:

  1. Binder clip.  One version of the AS220 DrawBot used a simple binder clip holding a pen as the gondola/pen holder.  It doesn’t get a whole lot simpler than that.  It appears from the video associated with this post that the pen is held on a somewhat rigid rail.  Similarly, Dustyn Roberts’ SADBot also used a big huge clip as a pen holder/weight and James Provost’s InternBot used a few binder clips.  However, the most hacked together system is easily Josh Myer’s Muralizer which consisted of a lump of Play-Doh enveloping the pen.
    AS220 Labs Pen Holder

    AS220 Labs Pen Holder

    SADBot Pen Holder

    SADBot Pen Holder

    Muralizer Pen Holder - Powered by Play-Doh

    Muralizer Pen Holder – Powered by Play-Doh

  2. Clip Stabilizer plus Binder Clip.  The “production version” of the AS220 DrawBot included lasercut spool parts, motor mounts, and a “clip stabilizer.”  The setup described in the assembly instructions appears to indicate that the pen can be held reasonably steady using this design.  However, having spoken to Shawn Wallace about these designs, he advised that this is really a non-optimal setup that has a lot of wiggle to it.
    AS220 Labs Clip Stabilizer Design

    AS220 Labs Clip Stabilizer Design

    AS220 Labs Clip Stabilizer plus Binder Clip

    AS220 Labs Clip Stabilizer plus Binder Clip

  3. Der Kritzler by Alex Weber.  This “gondola” made use of several lasercut parts creating a long wooden “cage” which held the pen in place along with a servo activated pen lift.  I can’t quite tell how the “pen lift” operates, whether it retracts the pen itself or whether it pushes something in front of the pen’s tip preventing the pen from leaving a mark.  Either way, this drawing robot pen holder has a feature that I never really appreciated until now – the wooden cage is suspended by two wooden “wings” which keep the point of attachment to the toothed belt at it’s midpoint.  I’ll discuss this feature more later.

    Der Kritzler Pen Holder

    Der Kritzler Pen Holder

  4. My first gondola was one of my own design and it was a miserable failure.  The central ring was too large to accommodate the marker pens I was using.  Also, it wasn’t heavy enough to make the monofilament hang in a straight line.

    Crappy Gondola

    Crappy Gondola

  5. Sandy Noble’s Polargraph.  Sandy has probably logged more hours with his drawing robots than just about anyone else.  So, when he uses a particular setup for his pen holder, there’s got to be something to it.  The interesting features of his gondola are that the weight is concentrated around the pen tube by use of several large bearings and, as with several other designs here, the cords to the pulleys are centered over the holder’s center of gravity.  After I published this post, I found a printable Polargraph-style pen holder by Lanthan on Thingiverse.

    Sandy Noble's Polargraph Gondola

    Sandy Noble’s Polargraph Gondola

  6. John Abela’s Gondola.  I used John’s designs with my first drawbot, but without the blank CD.  For the first time today I noticed that all of John’s pictures show the printed gondola glued to a blank CD for stability.1 When I used his design I just tied the top of the printed gondola to the monofilament line and added a ziplock baggie with dead batteries for weight.  The result was a reasonably decent gondola that was pretty finicky.  If the robot started drawing too close to one side or the other, the holder tended to twist and the pen made little to no contact with the paper.  I can see why the blank CD was such a good idea.

    John Abella's Polargraph Gondola

    John Abella’s Polargraph Gondola

  7. Dealywhopper’s Dr. Scratchy Polargraph Gondola.  Similar to John Abella’s Polargraph derivative is Dealywhopper’s Mr. Scratchy setup.  It’s an amusing mixture of high tech 3D printed parts and hot glue hackery.  There’s just something about its simplicity that really tickles me.  Print the part, add some glue, slide the binder clip into the groove, glue the holder, some pennies for weight, and a micro servo to an old CD and you’re done.  The interesting thing about this one is that the majority of the weight is off-center towards the drawing surface.

    Dealywhopper's Dr. Scratchy Polargraph Gondola

    Dealywhopper’s Dr. Scratchy Polargraph Gondola

  8. Dan Royer’s Makelangelo.  In the spirit of open source Dan Royer has been working on and blogging about his Makeangelo and Makelangelo 2 robots.  Dan’s Makeangelo is, like my first Polargraph derivative ‘bot, based on an Arduino Due and Adafruit Motor Shield.  If you check out his Youtube channel, there’s about two dozen uploads documenting Dan’s experiments with different pen holder configurations.  The version he’s shipping with his latest kit, which you can see below (the image is also a link to the video), uses three lasercut pieces to hold a pen and allow for an interesting pen lift.  Although you can’t see it in the image below, there is a third lasercut piece which appears to slide forward and backwards with the micro servo.  In the forward position it would push the pen holder top off the wall.  The holder includes two rows of holes along the top for attaching the motor strings above the holder’s center of gravity.

    Makeangelo 2 New Pen Holder

    Makeangelo 2 New Pen Holder

  9. Drawing Machine by Ragnar.  This drawing robot by Ragnar, a co-founder of Havtek, is exceptional for its incredibly high quality drawings and bespoke pen holder.  Ragnar provides a detailed description of his setup in two posts.  This may be the single most beautiful pen holder of the bunch.  With heavy brass pieces, there appears to be no further need for any additional weights.  As you’ll notice from his other photographs, the two brass arms are in the centered along the body of the pen holder.  This pen holder looks like each of the parts came off of an assembly line just destined to be part of an awesome drawing robot.

    Ragnar's Drawing Machine Pen Holder

    Ragnar’s Drawing Machine Pen Holder

  10. GarabatoBot (aka DoodleBot) by Made by Miguel Ángel de Frutos.  This is one of the most interesting drawing robot pen holders ever made – if for no other reason than it integrates almost all of the critical components into the pen holder itself.  As I recall, several other projects had tried to use integrated motors but found that the resulting pen holder/robot combination was too heavy to lift itself.  Miguel’s design is well documented on his site and the printable parts are shared on Thingiverse.

    GarabatoBOT robot by  Miguel Ángel de Frutos

    GarabatoBOT robot by Miguel Ángel de Frutos

  11. Harvey Moon’s Drawing Machine.  What makes Harvey Moon’s drawing robot pen holder particularly interesting is his choice to have the pen actually move up and down.  The pen holder incorporates a second non-drawing point and a rack-and-pinion system to advance and retract the pen.  I have to admit, I really like the aesthetic quality of having a no-foolin’ pen lift.

    Harvey Moon's Drawing Machine Pen Holder

    Harvey Moon’s Drawing Machine Pen Holder

  12. Darcy Whyte’s Mr. Drew.  Darcy Whyte aka Mambohead has been blogging about his own Polargraph variant2 for quite some time and worked through several different pen holders, including one designed specifically for a smaller drawing robot.  His designs use layered clear lasercut acrylic to build up a gondola which incorporates a springy clamp for holding the pen in place.  This video gives a really good tour of Darcy’s pen holder and explains several of the more important features.
    1. There are two pieces of threaded rod on either side of the pen holder.  By stacking pieces of acrylic you can adjust the position where the wire connects to the gondola.
    2. There is a pen clamp using a rubber band, as indicated above.  The best part about this clamp is that he uses varying pieces just below the pen to adjust the tilt on the pen, in case it requires a slight angle to draw on a more vertical surface.
    3. There is a third piece of threaded rod at the bottom of the gondola where additional weights can be attached.
    4. The clear acrylic and strategically placed holes in the top of the pen clamp allow the operator to see where the pen contacts the paper.

      Darcy Whyte's Mr. Drew Pen Holder

      Darcy Whyte’s Mr. Drew Pen Holder

  13. Stuart Childs DRBO.  Stuart Childs sells a lasercut Polargraph-compatible robot kit.  Once assembled it is a stand-alone drawing robot.  The most interesting difference between Stuart’s robot and Sandy’s setup is the construction of the pen holder.  I’ve included a picture of the front and back of the pen holder below to give you an idea of what it looks like.  Per Stuart’s comment below, his own gondola was inspired by Darcy’s Mr. Drew.3 For a better idea of how it is assembled and how it operates, you should definitely check out Stuart’s excellent step-by-step assembly photographs.  This pen holder has a small circular lasercut piece which attaches to the business end of a micro servo, to push ahead of the pen’s tip – allowing for “pen lifts.”  There are two features in particular that I really like.
    1. First, I like how the “arms” which connect to the motor cords can swivel.  This is a very clever way around several potential problems.  When tying the two cords to points on the pen holder, there are issues with placing them too far or to close together.  Too far apart makes the pen holder extra stable, but the image drawn are distorted.  Too close together minimizes distortion, but the pen holder can start to swing like a pendulum, causing wibbly wobbly lines.  Additionally, if the cords from the motors have too much “twist” in them, the entire pen holder can actually be turned sideways and will stop drawing entirely.  (I suspect just about any Polargraph-style pen holder which uses a large wide flat surface would be sufficient to combat the cord twisting/torquing problem.)  Looking back to the AS220 Labs pen holder, you can see that it appears to use two rigid rails instead of string.  The arms in Stuart’s robot essentially allow the cords from the motors to act as if they’re very close together – but probably wouldn’t allow much in the way of pendulum action.
    2. Second, I appreciate his spring-loaded pen holder.  This feature would allow his robot to accommodate a variety of pens or drawing implements.  While a rubber band would obviously work as a quick hack, a true metal string would stand up to repeated use.

    Stuart Childs’ DRBO Pen Holder

    Stuart Childs’ DRBO Pen Holder

  14. DrawBot Quick Change Pen Holder by UechiMike.  Thingiverse user UechiMike designed his own pen holder which he identified as a derivative of Dan Royer’s Makeangelo.  You’ll notice that UechiMike’s pen holder, like the DRBO immediately above, uses a rubber band in place of a spring as a way to accommodate a variety of pen sizes.  UechiMike’s pen holder has holes on either side for routing the monofilament wire which, it looks like, are tied around.  I have to wonder if the holder has any problem with torquing.  You’ve got to love the recycling of dead AA batteries here.  The only “gripe” with the design is that there isn’t any room for a  micro servo to for pen lifts.

    DrawBot Quick Change Pen Holder by UechiMike

    DrawBot Quick Change Pen Holder by UechiMike

  15. Screwless Sharpie Holding Gondola by Bluemetal.  Simple and sweet, this design doesn’t seem to have any weights or moving parts.  Just a bit of printed plastic and a push-fit hole designed for Sharpies.

    Screwless Sharpie Holding Gondola by Bluemetal

    Screwless Sharpie Holding Gondola by Bluemetal

  16. MakerBlock’s Cardboard Gondola.  Okay, now the most intricate, well designed, and durable feat of engineering ever to meet a marker.  My very own cardboard gondola.  As you can see, I slapped four AA batteries and a pen to a jagged piece of cardboard.  While it worked for several drawings4 it’s clearly nonoptimal.  The cord attachment points are wide enough to cause distortion and not well balanced enough to prevent swinging.  The only reason I slapped this together was that I was anxious to put my drawing robot to work.

    MakerBlock's Cardboard Gondola, Annotated

    MakerBlock’s Cardboard Gondola, Annotated

Frankly, my crappy gondola is a testament to the how forgiving DrawBot setups are.  Even though I’ve been admiring drawing robot setups for probably a year and a half now, I’ve really only started to understand some of the design decisions.  I’ll go ahead and publish this post5 and get to work on the next one laying out what I’ve learned from the different pen holders featured above.

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  1. Face palm []
  2. How awesome is it that Darcy worked with Sandy on pen holder designs?! []
  3. TeamTeamUSA created his own variation on Stuart’s pen holder and made the plans freely available on Ponoko []
  4. Four Deathstars and a Firefly class starship []
  5. I’ve been sitting on it now for a few days []

Overengineered Spools

Overengineered soda-fountain valves, in Hamburg, Germany

Overengineered soda-fountain valves, in Hamburg, Germany

This post is a sub-series concerning the redesign of the various parts of my DrawBot.  In short, I am looking to design/redesign

  • PolagraphSD case – discussed here – done!
  • Mounts for a paper roll – discussed here – waiting to upload…
  • Filament spools – discussed in this post – waiting to upload…
  • Stepper motor mounts – TBD1
  • Pen holder/gondola – TBD
  • Filament guides – TBD

After several iterations, I printed the parts2 for spools for the newest version of my DrawBot.  ((Photo courtesy of Cory Doctorow))

The original spools I designed were simultaneously over-and-under engineered.  They were over-engineered since, for spools, they required two separate parts that would be friction-fit together around the monofilament line.  They were under-engineered since, ultimately they once came apart while still attached to the robot – resulting in a lot of monofilament line unspooling everywhere.  While not tragic, it was a small hassle.

The second iteration of the spool for my DrawBot was far simpler.  You feed the monofilament line through a tiny hole in the spool and slide it onto the stepper motor shaft.  It was a single print where one end of the spool was flat and the other end was beveled to comply with the “45 degree” rule.  This spool design worked wonderfully – once I forced them onto the stepper motor shaft.  They were also bubble gum pink, according to my daughter’s specifications.  However, once I decided to upgrade my DrawBot into a PolargraphSD, I needed to remove the motors from their mounts – which meant I needed to take the spools off.  Unfortunately, taking the spools off proved to be a problem.  I had to literally hack them off using some heavy wire cutters, pliers, and a no-foolin’ hacksaw blade.  It did not help that I printed them at 100% infill.  I cannot imagine for the life of me WHY I wanted to print spools, that are basically non-weight-bearing, in solid plastic.  The big problem with this design was that the tolerances on the spools were not right – and it is entirely possible they never would be.  Slightly too tight and they would have to be destroyed to be removed or adjusted and slightly too loose and they might not stay on the shaft or have too much play as the robot operates.  In the end, I’m just not sure I could really “trust” a single-print press-fit spool to be removable and reliable.

Which now brings me to the spools I have designed over a few days and printed yesterday.  After several revisions I now have two spools3 which are themselves compromised of two parts.  I would have to say that although this spool is more complex than the first version I used, it is probably going to be the most reliable overall.  Each spool requires 2x M3x16 bolts, 1x M3x12 bolt, and three M3 nuts.  The two M3x16 bolts hold the top and bottom parts of the spool together tightly and the single M3x12 bolt is used to tighten the spool to the motor shaft.  The result final result are two spools that are symmetrical, do not have a beveled end where monofilament can be gathered over an increasing diameter, and can be tightened on the motor shaft or removed with ease.  They’re also somewhat heavy which gives them a good respectable “this-is-definitely-a-robot-part” feeling.

I will be sharing these designs on Thingiverse and they will be able to be found under my Designs or tagged with DrawBot, but I’m going to wait until after I’ve assembled the entire robot and have actually drawn something.  For all I know these could be abysmal failures.

Stay tuned – next, I’ll overdesign motor mounts!4

Default Series Title
  1. To be designed! []
  2. Plural?!?! []
  3. Printed at only 10% infill! []
  4. Then, it’s ten somersets I’ll undertake on SOLID GROUND! []