Yeah, well, that’s what happened to me.
Thanks to Steven, this problem was fixed in all of 30 seconds as I reformatted the SD card as a FAT 16!
Yeah, well, that’s what happened to me.
Thanks to Steven, this problem was fixed in all of 30 seconds as I reformatted the SD card as a FAT 16!
I don’t have killer 3D modeling skills – but am able to build a reasonable model using Sketchup. It may be closed-source, but it’s got a fantastic UI. (Heck, Apple has made an entire business model out of this proposition).
I’m trying to design a printable nut and bolt – and have a pretty good design. The diameter of the threads on the bolt is almost 1cm, so it’s pretty large. Constructing spirals manually is a real pain, so I used a plugin/script for generating the internal and external helixes. (Helixi?)
The difficulty with Sketchup is that it’s not really a 3D modeling program – it’s a sketching program that makes really good looking images and reasonably good 3D models. The problem is that it doesn’t really check to make sure triangles are properly oriented, sides are facing the way they should be, or that it is manifold. Oh, and when the model is small it will start making little holes in your object.
There are plugins for exporting Sketchup files to STL files, but either due to a flaw in Sketchup or the plugins, they results are not as good as what you would find in other programs. The end result is that to get a really good STL out of Sketchup I have to design in Sketchup, export as a 3DS model, import into Blender or NetFabb, fix it up, and then export back to a fixed STL.
If you’ve got a better way for transmuting a Sketchup file into a reliable STL, please let me know!
Custom bricks. Lego fanatics have apparently been designing and uploading their pictures/diagrams and schematics to Flickr! If you want to design something to upload to Thingiverse, this is a one stop shop of ideas. Thanks to Makezine.com for the link.
Want a hint? They’re all imaginary.
There’s no such thing as a monopoly on a truly open source hardware project. So what if someone cornered the market on some critical widget? The plans are open source and your options are infinite:
Or, my personal favorite:
These are not problems. These are opportunities for creativity and innovation.
It’s been an interesting year for RepRap/MakerBot. We’ve seen demand for parts and electronics increase. The MakerBot crew reported that for certain components they’ve actually cleaned out every source in the world. I’m not sure which component they’re referring to, but I suspect it’s the toothed extruder pulley. I love the idea that MakerBot has created a product garnering such high demand the entire freaking planet ran out of parts.
Can you imagine giving an interview after such an announcement?
Ricardo Santos managed to create PLA in his home. My Portuguese is pretty rusty. Well, to be exact, non-existent. However, that’s what Google is for! Thanks Ricardo!
I’ve been using Splenda instead of sugar lately. For single serving doses Splenda comes in little paper packets – like you see at restaurants. In order to keep them in line and at hand I designed and printed a sweetener holder.
It’s the little things in life, no?
The cheapest commercially available 3d printer on the market is the Dimension uPrint Personal 3D Printer, clocking in at $14,900. The media cartridges run $250 – and consist of coiled ABS in a plastic box. I can’t tell from their website how much plastic is in each cartridge, so I don’t know how cost effective it is. I’m not positive exactly how their cartridges operate – but I would not be surprised if they were tamper resistant, not able to be refilled, and contained special chips which authenticated them as being untampered and coming direct from the manufacturer.
Am I jaded by inkjets? Probably. I’m tired of buying printers with 1/3 full cartridges and expensive refills. The warranties are so much worse:
“Expensive manufacturer refills only! Only use paper made from unicorn tears and the hopes and dreams of orphans! Only power your machine with live baby seals. Using reasonably priced alternative supplies, making disparaging remarks, failure to properly maintain your machine, or printing will destroy your machine and void your warranty.”
My MakerBot came with more plastic than I can print in two years runs just barely over $1,000 with shipping. If something were to happen to MakerBot Industries, I can always find new filament elsewhere, adapt my ‘bot to a new source, or even a new material entirely. Or, I could just toss in a Dremel and have a mini-CNC/drill press.
I’ve found that backing out the filament after each print, while a pain, has been helpful in avoiding extruder jams. Or, rather, I have found fewer extruder jams while doing this. 1
I suspect the reason this has helped is that it removes from the PTFE insulator any of the remaining plastic that might have been about to ooze near the barrel top. Have you found that this helps you?
Sometimes when using the ReplicatorG control panel I accidentally hit Z- instead of Z+ to adjust the stage height. As you might imagine, this causes problems. At best, I end up with the Z stage out of whack. At worst, the hot and extruding print head slams into the build platform or model and knocks the Z stage out of whack.
Two possible upgrades would be: