3x2x1 Rubik’s Cube Production File

My prior copy of this 3x2x1 Rubik’s Cube was printed a few parts at a time – I’d print one part, test it, print up another, etc.  Last night I was able to use my production file to generate all seven pieces in one go.  It took 1 hour and 45 minutes to complete the print job, but well under three minutes to clear most of the pieces of the raft off the parts and assemble the puzzle.  In order to help people modify and improve upon my design, I’ve upload the original Sketchup files, the STL I used, as well as my own GCode.

Owenscenic on Thingiverse asked,

I am interested in trying your gcode, how did you generate it? How well does it minimize strings between the printed parts? I’ll look at is to see how it starts and the temp…

In case you’re wondering too, the answers are as follows:

  1. I generated the Gcode using my slightly tweaked RepG v18 built-in Skeinforge settings for ABS with a raft, with a build temperature of 220C.
  2. The Gcode does pretty well with minimizing stringing.  However, some of the credit has to go with the part placement in the STL production file as well as the nature of the object.  As soon as you assemble it and start to rotate the parts, most of the remaining strings and little blobbies will pop right off.

Owenscenic, please let me know how your print of this turned out!  Please post a picture!

New 3x2x1 Rubik’s cube design – totally printable!

X-Ray view of the 3x2x1 puzzle cube

X-Ray view of the 3x2x1 puzzle cube

This is easily my most intricate digital design for the MakerBot yet.  It’s a 3x2x1 variation on the Rubik’s cube puzzle I had posted earlier.

This version incorporates the prior improvements as well as designing a connector system inspired by R3bbeca‘s beco block connectors.

This has enabled a totally printable toy.  This just makes me happy. 1  The idea that I can crank out a set of these parts, clean them up a little, and just snap the toy together is just amazing.

TomZ‘s original 1x2x3 “friendlier” Rubik’s cube designs were also totally printable – but required a printed pin that was later glued in place.  I like the ideal of all printed parts – but strongly prefer a design that can later be disassembled easily.  And, as I mentioned above – the ability to hand assemble the toy is important to me.

I wasn’t able to recreate R3bbeca’s female connector designs2 so I made a simplified version that should suffice.

The simplified connection mechanism is essentially two plastic fingers that will (hopefully) pinch the barbell into place.  This was made by designing the outline of the gripping “fingers,” creating a horizontal cylindrical hole slightly larger than the intended end of the barbell, then creating a vertical cylindrical hole in the center for the barbell to be inserted through, then a bit of cleanup.

The biggest potential problem is that this design will require a carefully tuned ‘bot.  The center cube pieces have a lot of stuff packed in there – semi-circular slots for the semi-circular tabs, connectors for the barbell, and thin walls separating things.  With those thin walls and interior overhangs, this may be a difficult design to print.

I think Bender is up to the task, but we’ll see in a few hours.  :)  I can’t wait to print this!

For me, having a MakerBot is like waking up to Christmas every morning.

Oh, and before I forget, if you want one of these – leave a comment or send me an e-mail through the Contact page.  Make me an offer.

  1. Perhaps a little prematurely, since I haven’t actually printed this yet… []
  2. I believe I’ve already sufficiently lamented my inability to understand women and their mysterious lady ways. []

Improving on the 3x2x1 Rubik’s Cube

I’ve been fiddling with the designs for the 3x2x1 Rubik’s Cube incorporating some of the changes I had considered:

  • I’ve widened the holes for the nut and bolt.
  • I’ve made all of the cubes solid.  I think it will just work better with solid parts.  I had left the four end cubes mostly hollow to:
    • Improve printing time
    • Use less plastic
    • Possibly make an interesting hiding place for something very small
  • I’ve shortened the “stem” that connects the semi-circular tab to the end cube to allow for a more snug fit.
  • I’ve made the semi-circular groove in the center cubes narrower, to allow for a more snug fit.
  • Make these cubes solid so that they slide against each other easier.
  • I’ve noticed that the nut and bolt I installed into either side of the center cubes were pushed sufficiently well inside that they don’t want to come out or rotate.  This is a very good thing for this design!  It turns out that if you rotate it too much in one direction, you can just rotate it back a few times and it will be tightened back up!  It also makes for easy disassembly/reassembly – just rotate the puzzle until it comes apart and rotate it back together to reassemble.

Revising the 3x2x1 Rubik’s “Cube”

3x2x1 Rubik's Cube

3x2x1 Rubik's Cube

I finally found the time to print a copy of my 3x2x1 Rubik’s Cube.  Having printed it, I’d make a number of improvements in the next design iteration.  I would:

  • Make the circular slots in the center cubes smaller or the circular tabs in the four outside cubes larger.
  • Enlargen the holes for the nut and bolt.
  • Make these cubes solid so that they slide against each other easier.1
  • Consider replacing the entire nut/bolt requirement with a connection similar to the becco block connectors.  This would make for a totally printable solution.
  • Print the cubes two at a time to minimize warping without a heated build platform.

It slides reasonably well and is certainly functional.  However, after several center cube rotations I will tighten the center bolt.2

  1. The four cube sections at the extremities are hollow. []
  2. The hole for the nut is tight enough that it doesn’t rotate as I turn the bolt. []