Tag Archives: upgrade

ProfileMaker Update – and an apology!

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Last week, in an attempt to improve ProfileMaker I actually made some things worse – including screwing up the calculations.  So, if you ran some calculations last week and got some terrible results, that’s why.  Extra apologies to Tyler, since this was his first experience with ProfileMaker.

So, what’s different?  Well, a lot.

  • I added a rollover image of Albert Einstein to the “Advanced” link.  This just makes me happy.
  • I’ve moved the “thread width” option to the “advanced” section.  Overall, I find that the best results for thread width, and by extension the various “width over thickness” (W/T) parameters, are when you have a resulting W/T of 1.6 or greater.  The W/T is basically about how much the plastic is squished down when it is extruded.  If the plastic is not squished at all, such that the W/T is equal to 1, then the plastic extrusion doesn’t have a lot of contact with the layer below.  The problem with this is that the bond between the layers1 would be very weak, creating a weak finished product.  This is a long way of saying that if you don’t touch the advanced settings, you’ll get a W/T of at least 1.67 or greater generated by ProfileMaker.  This should give you a good strong result each time.  If you just have to tinker with those numbers, you can still override this default by specifying a new “thread width” in the advanced section.
  • I’ve added “nozzle diameter” as a new variable.  Tony Buser suggested in a recent conversation that the optimal thread width is probably equal to the nozzle aperture diameter.  I suspect you could get away with little bit more than this – probably equal to the nozzle diameter itself – as in the measurement from the outside edge of the nozzle to the opposite outside edge of the nozzle.  My reasoning is that the thickness of the metal that comprises the nozzle should be able to help squish down a little more plastic.  In some senses, this is really a better determination of a nozzle’s precision than just the nozzle aperture itself.  If you think about it, if your thread thickness setting is exactly equal to the nozzle aperture, then when the nozzle lays down a thread the edge of the nozzle will have to run over the thread next to it.  I should think that this is not optimal – since it could cause the nozzle to mess with the layers nearby.
  • I’m working on adding a few suggestions to the output that will only pop up when people use unrealistic values.  There may or may not be an Easter egg in this if and when it is completed.
  1. Usually called interlayer adhesion [↩]

WordPress makes all the difference

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…I don’t care what FakeGrimlock says.1

I finally updated the WordPress installation on this other blog of mine. 2  I’ve more or less neglected that other blog for almost two years – about as long as this blog has been in existence.   ;)  In any case, one side effect of not having an updated WordPress installation is that that other blog couldn’t take advantage of all the cool new features that make writing a blog much easier.

I’ve been using WordPress for about 4.5 years now and it has come an amazingly long way in this time.  The ability to quickly search for and add links to prior posts is pretty huge.  Anyhow, my point with this is that creating a post with a newer installation of WordPress is so much easier that I might actually start blogging on that other site more. 3 4

  1. No matter how hurtful it is… [↩]
  2. Yeah, I know.  Three blogs?!  It’s true!  But, it’s far less frequently updated – more on this in a second [↩]
  3. But, believe me, it’s far less interesting. [↩]
  4. As if that were possible amirite?! [↩]

It feels good to finally get this over with…

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I have this other1 website for which I’ve been avoiding upgrading WordPress. 2  This is basically a developer sin, I know.  I wrote some plugins and some features for this particular website and my concern was that by upgrading I might break some parts of the site.

Well, tonight I just upgraded WordPress along with all the plugins and themes.  I’ve kicked the tires a little and I think everything is okay.  There’s still a little apprehension about having missed something …  but that will pass.  I’m actually quite relieved to have finally done this.

  1. Mysterious [↩]
  2. It’s an uninteresting niche business website – you’re not missing anything. [↩]

Laptop woes

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I probably own about four or five laptops – all in states of serious disrepair.  I have broken down laptops like some people have cars on blocks on their lawn or tires in piles in their backyard.  Here’s what I’ve got right now, with a description of what it would take to fix it:

  • Dell Somethingorother.  Purchased used, old, heavy, running Windows 98, one bad pixel1 , terrible battery life, and about 1/2 the keys on the keyboard do not register unless you literally hurt your fingers pressing/hitting it.  With an external keyboard it’s not that bad, really.  I’ve got a PCMII WiFi card for it.
    • This laptop just isn’t for most people.  If you want to surf the web and word processing, it would be fine with an external keyboard.  That said, it’s pretty slow.
  • Dell XPS.  This is one of the few computers I’ve owned since it was brand new.  Big hard drive, DVD burner, speedy.  However, it’s running Vista (boo!!!), the battery lasts about half an hour, and the monitor is extremely dim no matter what I do.  I leave this one plugged into my Cupcake.
    • Vista is a pain, but an endurable one.  The monitor is dim enough that it is noticeable.  There’s no specific thing keeping me from using this laptop except that it is heavier than what I would like to carry around.  It’s on it’s second battery, an after market special, that holds about an hour or so of charge.
  • Everex Stepnote.  A computer I fixed twice,2 the previous owner drained the battery and let it sit for six months, threw it around, broke off both hinge covers, and scratched it all up to hell.  The DVD drive is completely shot and the battery lasts about 5 minutes.  It’s only got 1 GB of RAM, so it gets bogged down with medium tasks.  Last, but not least, the “+/=” button does not work.  At all.  The lack of those two keys makes programming a bear. 3
    • I’ve been using this laptop almost exclusively for the last year or so.  But, having the +/= button go bad means I am disincentivized to program – which is a bad thing.  I’ve taken this laptop apart, but there’s no way I can see to fix that button short of replacing the keyboard.  At $35+, the replacement keyboard costs on eBay not cost-effective.  The cost to upgrade this computer is not appetizing – $50 for 2GB RAM, $35 for a keyboard, $30 for a new battery?  That’s $115 for an underpowered laptop that is weighed down by a non-functional optical drive.
  • Dell Mini10.  Another twice fixed computer, zero battery (it holds absolutely no charge), tight keyboard, and small screen with a pretty poor resolution.
    • Nothing can be done about the screen, its resolution, or battery.  I could get a new battery, but my concern is there’s some flaw on the motherboard causing it to systematically kill the battery.  When traveling I take this laptop with me and use it to connect into my home network via a VPN.  It would be better with a battery, but with the screen as bad as it is, I’m not looking to spend much time using this computer.  This is the laptop I booted with Ubuntu and wasn’t able to connect to my WiFi network. 4

I’m somewhat undecided on what to do.  Should I get a new computer or try to get one of these running better?

  • Anything over 2-3 hours is great.  Bonus points for more.
  • Minus points for an optical drive – I have an external and don’t need the extra weight.
  • Keyboard and monitor size can be small, as long as it has good resolution.
  • Any current processor is fine, I offload all big tasks (video transcoding, etc) to brainier machines on the home VPN, but 2GB RAM is pretty key
  • Lower price is better, obv.

Anyone have any suggestions?  Either for repairing or what you’d recommend for a laptop?

  1. Stuck on red, if you must know [↩]
  2. Seriously, Tom – who the hell deletes an operating system… TWICE??? [↩]
  3. Amusing note:  in order to circumvent this problem, there is a “+=” contained on every page of this blog – in white text on the white background.  When I need either symbol, I just pull up this site, copy the character I need, paste, and rock on. [↩]
  4. I suspect there was some problem with Ubuntu not recognizing my WiFi card [↩]

MakerBot Hi Rez Printing Secrets revealed!

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Warning: All responses from Dave are real, in the correct order, and unchanged.  I may have embellished my questions and responses.

  • MakerBlock: Dave!  How do you spell your last name?
    • Dave: dduranT.. T!!!! :P
  • MakerBlock: How exotic!  I’m having trouble pronouncing the last bit, so I hope you don’t mind me just calling you “Dave.”  Well, how did you do it?  Oh, and what’s your favorite vodka?
    • Dave: Patience, practice, Grey Goose.
  • MakerBlock: In two words or less, did you print slowly or fast?
    • Dave: Really, REALLY fastly.
  • MakerBlock: Um, I guess that counts.   I mean, you did only use two words – but you used one of them twice.  And I don’t think “fastly” is a real word.  Did you run the extruder slow or fast?  Please be sure and end your response with a preposition.
    • Dave: Slow but not as slow as I expected I’d have to.
  • MakerBlock: Did you use a custom nozzle or the standard MakerBot nozzle?
    • Dave: I do have a 0.35mm hot end from makergear.com (props to makergear – much awesome to be found there) but haven’t installed it yet. I’m still using the 0.5mm nozzle from MBI.
  • MakerBlock: Could you describe your setup for us?  Please be sure and include at least one plug for your all-time favorite MakerBot / RepRap blog written by me.
  • MakerBlock: Dave, it’s been great having you on the show.  Thank you for coming to speak to us and we’d love to have you back any time.

Mysteries of the tall print

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There’s a new Tall Print record holder in town.  Brian J. Pierce aka Chooch printed a 154mm tall Chicago’s Willis Tower.  Brian reveals the secret: “My bot is hacked, but using mostly original parts that came with the kit and printed parts to achieve the new record.”

What’s the hack?  Well, Brian says in the comments, “I’ll be releasing the Pfierce Z-axis extender kit in a couple of weeks.  It comes with 6 spacers and a new and improved z axis crank.”  Below is a crop of picture of Brian’s setup.

Chooch's Vertical Hack

Chooch's Vertical Hack

I think there’s a lot of interesting stuff in this setup:

  1. It looks like Brian’s got a Z axis wobble arrester.  I can’t tell if it is NateTrue’s Wobble Arresting Z bracket or TwoTimes’ Wobble Arrester.  If I had to guess, I’d think it’s NateTrue’s – since there are no visible straight rods.
  2. Check out the build quality on the Z axis wobble arrester – it’s terrible!!!
  3. Now, check out the build quality on the print – it’s pretty good!  Nice job!  I guess that arrester is working.
  4. If you look at the place where the top panel meets the sides, you can see printed bits.  It looks like he’s used a series of “spacers” (perhaps 6?) to raise the top panel above the sides.

Spare parts

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The last week has been a fruitful one for me, at least as far as printing things on my MakerBot is concerned.  I’ve designed, created derivatives, printed upgrades, updated the firmware, installed the latest (super sweet!) RepG, and even performed some maintenance.

One amusing and useful experiment was the serial production of the Z Axis Wobble Reducers by MakiYoshida.  Using my current settings I printed one.  Then I installed it and printed a second.  The second was a visibly better product.  I installed the second and printed a third.  The third was no better than the second.  I installed the third and printed a fourth.  I then installed the fourth… and didn’t bother to print with it.

Right now I have two of these wobble reducers installed on the front right and back left Z axes.  Installing one on the most warped rod (front right, for those of you playing at home) helped significantly.  Installing the second on the back left helped a little more.  Installing the third on the back right didn’t seem to make much of a difference, and may have been worse than the second print.  I didn’t realize why until I tried to install the fourth Z axis wobble reducer.

Once all of the wobble reducers were in place I found that the entire Z stage was too mobile – and would easily shift from left to right and back and forth.  When you have no wobble reducers one or more warped Z axis rods will force the entire stage out of whack.  When you have four wobble reducers, there is nothing keeping the Z stage steady.  Thus, the optimum number is between one and three.  However, I noticed that having two diagonally across from one another gave me enough wobble reduction to improve the print, but not so much flexibility that it could get pushed around in the middle of a print.

Part of the problem is that this particular wobble reducer will allow nearly unimpeded side-to-side motion.  However, these wobble reducers are also fantastic at compensating for a badly warped rod.  I suspect that mixing different kinds of wobble reducers might be my best bet.  I’m not really that interested in installing one of versions that requires precision rods, since it’s just one more thing I have to source for my MakerBot.  Ideally I can mix and match these two types of wobble reducers to improve the overall print.  The Z-axis floating arrester appears to keep the captive nut more … captive than the Z axis wobble reducers I have installed.  This may provide the exact combination of rigidity and flexibility I need to optimize my print quality and minimize layer shift as I print.

The upshot of all of this, and the reason for the post title, is that I now have two Z Axis Wobble Reducers by MakiYoshida that I’m not using.  Do you need one or two of these and feel like saving yourself the print time?  If so, drop me a line.

Got my groove back

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It just wasn’t the same without my old theme.

Of the several WordPress websites I have, this was the first one I moved to WordPress 3.0 when it came out.  Unfortunately, 3.0 totally broke the hell out of my theme.  I suspect it happened when the database was upgraded and it nuked the theme options.  But, an upgrade to the theme1 and a little CSS spit and polish…  and I’m back!

Edit: One unfortunate side effect of upgrading the theme was that it nuked my logo image.  I found the original on Flickr, resized it, and dropped it back in.  However, as you can tell from the nasty pixelation – I used “Paint” to resize.  Blech.  I’m going to have to redo that.

  1. the super flexible and customizeable Constructor [↩]

MakerBot Upgrades

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I just noticed that two parts I designed (an X-axis tensioner and Y-axis tensioner) are suggested prints on the MakerBot wiki.  (Yes, I know it’s an open wiki – but I swear I didn’t add these things myself).  It’s pretty cool that generations of MakerBots may be using upgrades I designed.

Internet fame and fortune are mine!

The price of early adoption

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I’m a huge fan of WordPress.  I’ve enjoyed rolling my own plugins and helping people with theirs.  I’ve also been following the WordPress development blog – and anxiously awaiting version 3.0.  Unlike a lot of other programs, WordPress just assigns the next version number by incrementing by 0.1.  This is, in part, to avoid version inflation (the unnecessary and excessive increasing of versions).

Except…  updating to the last WordPress and latest version for my current theme ToTaLy broke my site.  :/