The first version of ProfileMaker was released on 8/2/2011 and optimized for stepper-based extruders and Skeinforge 35 bundled with ReplicatorG 24. Since then the configuration settings for Skeinforge have been renamed and moved around.  If you can find the new spots, these settings should still work for you.

Congratulations - you may just have printed your last calibration cube!

This is the ProfileMaker powered by the formula in Dave Durant's Profileinator. Hover your mouse over the name of an option for more information. Photo courtesy of John Abella
Basic Options ABS PLA Advanced
Advanced Options
More than 17597 profiles and 5532 people served!

Update: 7/13/2012:  It has come to my attention that Skeinforge has moved some settings around since I wrote this more than a year ago.  The values are still good and should still give you a good quality print – but you’ll have to do a little extra legwork to find the proper place for them.  If you want to help out by sending me an e-mail suggesting how I can update this, I’d be grateful.

Update 1/21/2012:  I broke some things while trying to fix other things.  I believe I’ve now fixed all the those things.  :)

Update 1/20/2012:  Okay!  I got mixed responses to those changes!  I’ve changed things again!

Update 1/13/2012:  I’ve simplified the interface.  I hope you like it!

Update 8/1/2011:  I’m still e-mailing my web host trying to get to the bottom of this website’s high resource usage.  I’ve gotten the resources down somewhat and will start to re-enable features one-by-one, starting with ProfileMaker.

Update 7/19/2011:  ProfileMaker has been disabled for a few days and I’m still tweaking my server.  In the meantime, definitely try out Dave Durant’s Profilinator.  ProfileMaker uses the exact same math as in Dave’s program.

Update 7/8/2011:  Okay, I’m going to try fully disabling ProfileMaker.

Update 7/5/2011:  I’m going to try just disabling the complete profile generation and e-mail feature and see if that reduces the server load.  If enough people comment saying that they miss that feature, I’ll find a way to bring it back.

Welcome to ProfileMaker v2.0! v3.0! [Updated 4/8/11] This is a Skeinforge setting generator based on Dave’s Profileinator. Right now it will only work for a MakerBot MK6 or other stepper extruder, but I’m working on a DC motor version1 .  The outputs are intended for Skeinforge 35 bundled with ReplicatorG 24.  Poke around, kick the tires, and try out a new profile!  It has the ability to e-mail you a completed profile, if you wish.  Be sure and check your spam folder for the e-mail if you use this option.

  1. Such as the MakerBot MK4-MK5 []

105 Responses to “ProfileMaker”

  1. awkward says:

    What is the difference / pros & cons of this vs Print-o-matic? I’ve been finding POM has been getting me pretty good results.. but you know we can’t resist tinkering if there is another way :-)

  2. MakerBlock says:

    @awkward: That’s a great question. Print-o-Matic will give you a great print quality, right off the bat, and it will basically not allow you to choose insane settings, but it doesn’t actually create any profiles for you to tinker with later. ProfileMaker will also give you a great print quality, will let you choose crazy settings if you want, and will generate the key settings in a profile for you. The benefit is that you can take a known good profile with settings from ProfileMaker and then tinker with it to get a better result. Both are great, but it probably comes down to a matter of preference.

  3. Owen says:

    What nozzle size does this assume? If I am using a .35 nozzle, can I get good results from this?

  4. MakerBlock says:

    @Owen: It doesn’t assume any nozzle size, so as long as you choose sane-ish numbers you should be okay.

  5. Owen says:

    Hmm, it is a little stringy on solid layers. Do you think this might be because of the .35 nozzle or is my MakerGear stepper extruder different enough that I should change things? I did 0.25 layer height, 0.47 thread width, and everything else was the same. Maybe slow the feedrate a bit? would that make it sane-er?

    THank you for this easy and great tool.

  6. Owen says:

    Hey I played with the “Gear Swell” and have made my best calibration cube ever. I can check that off the bucket list. Thanks for the great tool.

  7. MakerBlock says:

    @Owen: If you are not using the MakerBot MK5 extruder gear, you’ll need to measure your gear as closely as possible. Or, you could adjust the gear swell using trial and error.

  8. MakerBlock says:

    @Owen: You’re welcome!!! I’m glad you like it!

  9. Scott says:

    I made my own extruder with a double gear 1.75mm filiment drive and it seems to be woking quite well. I am trying to dial it in. Question: When I measure the gear diamitor do I measure the smalest dimention excluding the knuling or does it it matter?

    FYI i have always had the best results using your profile maker, thanks for the good aid!


  10. MakerBlock says:

    @Scott: That’s an amazingly good question. I honestly don’t know the answer. When you say double gear, do you mean you have two gears actually making contact with the filament or do you mean the filament gear is driven by a second gear?

  11. 1oldclown says:


  12. s p e x says:

    How do I make this applicable to my cupcake w/ MK4 extruder?

  13. MakerBlock says:

    @spex: Unfortunately, it isn’t. There are several calibration options on Thingiverse, however.

  14. […] for good prints. While I was poking around the web I found a site that has a Profile Maker that helps you adjust your settings in Skeinforge. So, I am giving it a try but since I am at work […]

  15. Tyler says:

    First, thank you for taking the time to put this web app together. As a PHP programmer I know how much work putting something like this together can be.

    Unfortunately, after plugging in your apps parameters my results got worse, a lot worse.

    I’m using a new (2012) makerbot ToM with the MK7 extruder. All of the settings the program spit out were larger than the original stock settings for the Mk7 in ReplicatorG. What am I missing?

    Is this only intended for older makerbots?

    I’m having trouble with circles not being round, prints being undersized, and too much plastic being extruded (which leads to a non-smooth surface finish). Any suggestions?

  16. MakerBlock says:

    @Tyler: I know people are successfully using ProfileMaker with their MK6, MK6+, and MK7’s. What parameters are you using? What nozzle size do you have? When did you run a calculation? I did make some changes to the program a few days ago – but I suppose it is possible I screwed something up. :)

  17. Tyler says:

    .4mm nozzle, ran the calculations today. Unfortunately I didn’t save the parameters that it spit out. Hmm. If nobody else is having any issues it’s probably just my machine. I’m going to try a few other ways to tune the machine and see what happens.

  18. MakerBlock says:

    @Tyler: I’ve been working on the program, so please give it a few hours before trying its output. I’ll do a post when it’s back up.

  19. […] some calculations last week and got some terrible results, that’s why.  Extra apologies to Tyler, since this was his first experience with […]

  20. myearwood says:

    Hi MakerBlock

    These are the values I got.
    ◦”0.36″ in Carve -> “Layer Thickness (mm)”
    ◦”1.67″ in Carve -> “Perimeter Width over Thickness (ratio)”
    ◦”1.67″ in Fill -> “Infill Width over Thickness (ratio)”
    ◦”30″ in Speed -> “Feed Rate (mm/s)”
    ◦”1.568″ in Speed -> “Flow Rate Setting (float)”

    What does the 1.568 mean in terms of speed? I do not yet have a stepper extruder, so how do I translate that speed to rpms?


  21. MakerBlock says:

    @Myearwood: I’m sorry to say that these figures don’t translate to non-stepper extruders. :( If you scroll through the comments or scan through Thingiverse, you’ll find several formulas and methods for arriving at useable values for non-stepper extruders.

  22. […]  beaucoup d’information sur l’impression 3D, mais le plus remarquable reste le ProfileMaker qui permet en deux clics d’obtenir les paramètres les plus basiques pour le […]

  23. Bluemetal says:

    Hello MakerBlock,

    I had seen the ProfileMaker before but had not realized how good it was until this week. Jetguy placed a link in a profile thread at Makerbot Forum and I tried last night on my trusted 0.5mm MK6 with “3” mm ABS and it produced the best print quality over the last three months since I moved to Jetty firmware (still unaccelerated so basically 3.1 without the Z bug).

    The most incredible is how far off the numbers in my profiles were. I am actually capable of layer heights 0.25mm with the 0.5mm nozzle (that I went back too for the grief I was getting when using a new 0.4mm).

    Thank you very much for making this tool. It has given me new hope for my trusted Thing-O-Matic.

  24. Bluemetal says:

    Hello MakerBlock,

    have you given any thought on how the profile would change in accelerated firmwares like Jetty? You define speed as a consequence of the 3 initial variables but how complex would it be to have speed but a defined target?

    Thanks again for the tool. It has already helped me a lot.

  25. Bluemetal says:

    Just realized there was an “Advanced Options” area. Wonderful! :))

  26. MakerBlock says:

    @Bluemetal: Unfortunately, I haven’t tinkered with the ProfileMaker code in a long time. (A year?) I’m really unfamiliar with accelerated firmwares and how one would adapt these calculations to suit. This page is built using just the math from David Durant’s program, which is now probably 18 months old. If someone published the math behind acceleration, I’d be happy to take another crack at updating this program.

  27. MakerBlock says:

    @Bluemetal: I’m glad you like it! I spent a lot of time on that interface, stripping out as much as I possibly could.

  28. Chris Ball says:

    Here is a quick howto for getting this to work with a thing-o-matic and skeinforge 50 (as near as I can tell, your mileage may vary, blah, blah blah):

    Start with the no5D profile because it is important for a TOM that dimension is disabled (at least if you are still using makerbot’s firmware)

    Carve-> “Layer Thickness (mm)”
    is now Carve-> “Layer Height (mm)”

    Carve -> “Perimeter Width over Thickness (ratio)”
    is now Carve-> “Edge Width over Height (ratio)”

    Fill -> “Infill Width over Thickness (ratio)”
    is now Inset-> “Infill Width over Thickness (ratio)”

    Speed -> “Feed Rate (mm/s)”
    hasn’t changed

    Speed -> “Flow Rate Setting (float)”
    hasn’t changed but…
    The documentation says to set the value the same as the value in Feed Rate, don’t do this, use the value computed by profile maker. Also there is a file called replace.csv located (under linux) in the .replicatorg/sf_50_profiles/*yourProfileName*/alterations/ directory. This file has to have the semicolon ‘;’ removed from the M108 line or none of the flow rate settings will do anything and you will be confused and drowning in calibration cubes.


  29. Chris Ball says:

    Oh a couple other things I forgot to mention:
    You need to steal the start.gcode and end.gcode from an appropriate TOM skeinforge 35 profile and drop them into the aforementioned alterations directory because the start and end provided by the no5d profile is for the replicator.

    I found that the first diagonal line printed out ended up going under my model most of the time so I commented out the M101 line in the start.gcode and turned on Skirt in skeinforge to give the extruder a chance to do something before the model started printing.

  30. Brian Karlsen says:

    hi looks like a good app but what extruder is it asuming as mine using thoes setings got almost no flow also what step 1/2 1/4 1/16 microstepping the sest of the setings are working nicely for me but had to bump thre flow rate up to 25 or so still playing with it where profile maker sugested 1.47

  31. MakerBlock says:

    @Brian: I wrote this App about a year and a half ago and somewhat optimized it for the MakerBot MK6 and MK7 stepper based extruders. I wouldn’t think that microstepping would really matter all that much to these calculations. These calculations are basically a volumetric estimate of the speeds necessary to lay down layers of plastic given a particular amount of estimated plastic input. Given the speed values generated by the program, I would think that your Skeinforge would just output the correct microstepping commands.

  32. […] perfectly calibrated (I did a quick adjust on the great profile created by Makerblock’s Profile Maker). Then comes the real fun of upgrading to Sailfish and SF50 and seeing just how fast my printer can […]

  33. Jose says:

    Hi I am having great troubles with the 0.5 mm thin walll. I tried both Profileinator and POM setting for genereating the G code. The thing is the nozzle doesn´t go up and the platic gets all smashed on the bed. The solid cube test goes well but this thin wall doesn´t i don´t know what the problem is!!! Thanks

  34. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: Hmm… that is a really weird problem. Do you have a picture you could share? Also, what kind of machine do you have?

  35. jose says:

    hi I have a reprap mendel, with maker motherboard and thing o matic electronics. I work with 2.85 mm filament. Now I solved the problem changing the z feedrate from 1000 to 100, anyway I am gettin blobs in the corner when it goes up the layer, and the thicknes of my thin wall is 2 mm shoudl I be able to make in thinner__? Thanks a lot I have picture sbut how should I post them?

  36. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: The easiest way is to post the picture to Flickr or on your own site. I would think your wall thickness is only limited by your nozzle diameter and the file you’re printing. Try designing a thinner walled part, printing that, and letting me know how that goes.

  37. jose says:

    Ok I will post some pictures on a new flickr account. I finished the tower calibration, but I had to change the flowrate on the code to 0.8 is that possible? How low cna I go on flow rate I think my extruder puts down a lot of plastic¡¡¡!!

  38. jose says:

    hi everyone I uploaded my pictures to a flickr account here is the link
    Hope you can help me to get rid of the blob and find right settings. Many thanks¡¡!! from the south of the south.

  39. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: First, congratulates on a job well done! I can tell from those pictures that you’ve done a great job calibrating so far. Second, I would suggest you first tune your “flowrate” before trying to tackle the corner blobs. Try printing the calibration cube again – but using 100% fill. By the time the part is done, you’ll know if your flowrate is too high or too low. Third, the corner blob is due in part to the machine pausing for a very short time during layer changes and at the end of the print. I can’t tell if this is due in your case to the layer change or the end of the print. We will probably have a better idea once you fine-tune your flowrate. As for a flowrate at 0.8mm/s, I wouldn’t worry about it being too low as long as you’re getting decent results.

  40. jose says:

    Ok but my calibration cubes look pretty good? Should I try flowrate 0.5mm pers econd or it is weird?

  41. jose says:

    Well I uploaded three new calibration cubes. I tried printing with 0.1 and 0.7 mm per seoncd I only get bad results, I think that on Replicator 40 with Skeinforge 50 flowrate has to be from 215 to 255, i guess is coded on PWM. I now will include the details of the big variables on each cube. I got great results with 215 mm per second flowrate, and 1.45 infill width over thickness..

    When I tried to print some bigger thing, like a whistle, at the top of the piece the plane got displaced on the Y axis, on the same spot maybe I am getting some Y belt slippage??

    Cube 1

    flowrate 255 mm per second
    layer height 0.42 mm
    feedrate 60 mm per second
    Travel feerate 50 mm per second
    Infill solidity 1
    Edge width over heght 1.82
    Infill width over thickness 1.51

    Cube 2

    flowrate 225 mm per second
    layer height 0.42 mm
    feedrate 60 mm per second
    Travel feerate 50 mm per second
    Infill solidity 1
    Edge width over heght 1.82
    Infill width over thickness 1.45

    Cube 3

    flowrate 215 mm per second
    layer height 0.42 mm
    feedrate 60 mm per second
    Travel feerate 50 mm per second
    Infill solidity 1
    Edge width over heght 1.82
    Infill width over thickness 1.51

    Thanks MakerBlock and David with the profilinator¡¡!!!

    All this is just starting in Argentina¡¡!!


  42. Jose says:

    I still could not solve this problem I am just trying to make extruder work slower. I tried with E steps on the sailfish firmware, should I increase it or decrease it::? Thanks. J.

  43. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: Are you using a stepper based extruder or a DC motor based extruder?

  44. Jose says:

    Maker Block I am using a stepper based extruder, type J for Rep Raps.
    I think I also need to calibrate my E steps per mm, but on replicator G 0 40 doesn´t allow to extrude
    an amount of material, just seconds.
    Then wel my flowrate I am trying now with the same than the feedrate, should I lower it down:::_??

  45. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: The reason I asked about the stepper extruder is that the numbers you were giving for a flowrate between “215 to 255” is what I would have expected with a DC motor. Those kinds of numbers don’t make much sense for a stepper based motor. A stepper based motor would normally have a value around 30-40. Perhaps you might want to try different software to run your RepRap? My experience is really only with MakerBot electronics and not with RepRap stuff.

  46. Jose says:

    Well I am using Makebot electronic, cuause they are not only only board, but several and I like it better.
    So imagine its like a Makerbot thing o matic, but fitted into Rep Rap mechanics. All motors are stepper,
    now I finally fixed it changing the micro stepping on the controller board, it was 1 off, 2 on, I put 1on ant 2 off and changed I can control the speed of the extrduer whell and go very slow actually now my Estepss went into sometning like 80, my printing are a bit slower cause I slower the Feed Rate, but very neat slow extrusion it is amazin, much better.

    The only problem is the first layer don´t stick very well to the botom, any ideas how to fix this::_?? Is it about some grease being set up on the heated bed_? How often do you Change you think kapton tape?? Maybe is about the thicknes on first layer, I can maybe put extra flow rate, like 1.5????

  47. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: Ah, so MakerBot’s gen 3 electronics which were used in the Thing-O-Matic did not include a stepper based extruder at first. You had to add a stepper controller, a stepper motor, and update firmware to upgrade it.

    Getting the first layer to stick really comes down to careful calibration. You’re going to have to dial in your robot’s Z height, make sure the print bed is level, clean the Kapton surface to it is clear of grease/dust. You also want to make sure you bed is heated enough – 110 to 130 for ABS and I tend to like 40 to 50 for PLA. If you want to ensure a slightly better adherence on the first layer, it can help to sand the Kapton tape very slightly.

    If you stay tuned to the MakerBot blog, I’m working on a series for helping to improve resolution which includes a lot of advice for getting prints to stick to the print bed.

  48. José says:

    Makerblock thanks, yes I love this makerbot blog, makerblog. I though that maybe it wasn’t sticking cause now the layers are so thin, maybe if I increase the width of the first layer?? For better adherence then is better higher temperatures like 130 celcius???

    what do you mean sand the kapton tape? by hand? how often do you change that kapton tape maybe it is time to change mine. Thanks¡¡ J.

  49. MakerBlock says:

    @Jose: Well, I print the first layer slower – which seems to help. Also, I would double-check your printer’s height. Getting the height correct is super important for that first layer – since you’re printing in such thin slices. I wouldn’t try to increase the width of the first layer. Yeah, I would try a higher temperature if you are still having problems with adherance. Yes – use some course sandpaper and sand the Kapton tape in only one direction. This will give the Kapton tape more texture for the print to stick to. I change my Kapton tape pretty often these days, mostly because I’ve been poking more holes in after printing at very high resolution. Just keep your Kapton tape clean and replace it when it isn’t, use a temperature of up to 130 degrees, and calibrate your printer height as exactly as you can.

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